Blue Ridge Parkway Rock Climbing
View from near Dripping Rock Overlook
This page is for the first 30 miles of the Blue Ridge Parkway. Long known for it's great traditional and top rope climbing at Love Gap (contains cliffs up to 200 feet with a few multi-pitch routes) and Raven's Roost, respectfully, the Parkway came in vogue again when the father son pair Barry and Brendan Condron went looking for bouldering potential at The Forest based on an old rockclimbing.com/routes/North_...
area. The area turned out to be a gold mine. After sharing the information with other Charlottesville climbers, development of the parkway's greenstone bouldering entered a golden age. Most of the rock is only a short hike off the parkway with some of it such as the 12.2 boulder being essentially on the road. Taken from blueridgebouldering.com/
Most of the rock in the first 25 miles or so on the parkway is greenstone. Greenstone, more specifically greenschist, is the metamorphic child of basalt, but can climb a bit like sandstone at times. Greenstone can be a bit soft and fragile at times, but at others very solid. Greenstone has a lot of sharp edges and flakes on it, and can be painful to climb on at times. It may not sound that great from the way I'm describing it, and there are a lot of boulders that are just as bad as it sounds, but we've been very lucky and found many boulders that are solid and not too sharp. Greenstone definitely isn't the prettiest or most solid rock I've ever seen, but I'm certainly not about to complain about having so much of it so close. For more information on greenschist, you can read the Wikipedia page on it: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greensch...
On some spots on the parkway, bands of Old Rag Granite run through. As the name implies, this is the same rock that you will find when climbing or hiking on Old Rag. Old Rag granite is very featured and grainy/sharp, but is generally fairly solid to climb on. Parkway Bouldering Guides and videos blueridgebouldering.com/ Love Gap Guide sicgrips.com/Love_Gap_Guide.ht... Climbing Season
The parkway can
be climbable all year. Love Gap is south facing and offers from great winter-time trad. The Forest is generally 10 degrees cooler than the city of Charlottesville, so even on 90 degree days you can be climbing in 80 degrees. If we have a mild winter, the parkway is PRIME. However, the roads get closed for snow. Check the link below to see if the roads are open. nps.gov/maps/blri/road-closure...
Best access from Rockfish Gap/Afton Mountain... and head south on Blue Ridge Parkway.
Climbing Season For the All Locations area.
Weather station 5.0 miles from here
104 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',12],['3 Stars',23],['2 Stars',44],['1 Star',14],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in Blue Ridge Parkway
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Blue Ridge Parkway
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Blue Ridge Parkway:
Featured Route For Blue Ridge Parkway
God's Own Greenstone V7-8 7B VA
: Blue Ridge Parkway
: ... : Greenstonia (Ridgeline)
Sit down start on a large Jug/Crimp in the back of the save and move straight out of the cave via crimps until you hit some perfect jugs. Moving off the crimps onto the jugs actually seems to be the crux. Taller climbers can do some foot magic but one of the first ascentionists ended up catching a massive swing. The top is not hard but actually pretty scray. We cleaned and practiced the top on a rope....[more] Browse More Classics in VA
View from '20 Minute Cliff' overlook
Life After Geenstone (V9). A king line of the park...