Blue Light Special 

The undercling/start has gotten amazingly slimy and greasy, making it a bit less fun. I heard the good thumb catch for the right on that undercling had disintegrated a bit, too. Still a great route, though.

good route that sees plenty of traffic.

it's rated 11b in the new watts guide.

If the consensus is 11b then I can change it. It's been a few years since I've been on it.

while a good climb, it does not live up to its hype. try its neighbor, more sandy than kevin, for a better line.

This is a great route. I for some reason attempted to pull the route using the sucker- jug off to the right which then ruined my onsight. It is easier to clip the second bolt off of the jug, but hard trying to come into the undercling sequence afterwards. I don't know about 11b though?

This is one of those routes that can feel really easy if you're strong and can make long reaches. If you're short the crux will probably feel annoying hard for the grade. This route, Toxic and License to Bolt are 11s that I have seen shorter climbers get frustrated on.

The second clip is for sure the crux. That undercling is POLISHED. Found a knee-bar with a foot in the hole out right that made this thing pretty casual, but I still think it tends more towards 11b.

I feel... really good about the undercling. It doesn't feel polished to me at all. Maybe I'm using a different part of it?

I'll have to try the knee bar next time I'm up there.

tough start

Blue Light Special feels harder than Toxic. Less fun too.


Chad