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Shipwreck Wall - East Face
Routes Sorted
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Blue Light Special S 
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More Sandy than Kevin S 
Mothers Milk S 
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Walking While Intoxicated S 

Blue Light Special 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Tom Egan, December 1990
Page Views: 3,640
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Jan 22, 2006

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climber on blue light special

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A great 5.11a on the far left end of Shipwreck. Slightly overhanging but with good holds and fun movement. I only wish it were longer!


6 bolts and a bolted anchor

Photos of Blue Light Special Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: all the protection bolts are showing, anchor is ju...
all the protection bolts are showing, anchor is ju...
Rock Climbing Photo: clipping the 3rd bolt
clipping the 3rd bolt
Rock Climbing Photo: Cool climb.
Cool climb.
Rock Climbing Photo: good bouldery start then eases off.  wish climb wa...
good bouldery start then eases off. wish climb wa...
Rock Climbing Photo: Crux move/clip
Crux move/clip

Comments on Blue Light Special Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 4, 2015
By jonah
Jan 30, 2006

The undercling/start has gotten amazingly slimy and greasy, making it a bit less fun. I heard the good thumb catch for the right on that undercling had disintegrated a bit, too. Still a great route, though.
By mark d
Apr 18, 2006

good route that sees plenty of traffic.

it's rated 11b in the new watts guide.
By Peter Franzen
From: Phoenix, AZ
Apr 18, 2006

If the consensus is 11b then I can change it. It's been a few years since I've been on it.
By bryans
Jun 19, 2006

while a good climb, it does not live up to its hype. try its neighbor, more sandy than kevin, for a better line.
By Joel Sprenger
From: Terrebonne, OR
Nov 28, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This is a great route. I for some reason attempted to pull the route using the sucker- jug off to the right which then ruined my onsight. It is easier to clip the second bolt off of the jug, but hard trying to come into the undercling sequence afterwards. I don't know about 11b though?
By ----
Dec 14, 2008

This is one of those routes that can feel really easy if you're strong and can make long reaches. If you're short the crux will probably feel annoying hard for the grade. This route, Toxic and License to Bolt are 11s that I have seen shorter climbers get frustrated on.
By Eric Schnepel
From: Portland
Apr 13, 2011

The second clip is for sure the crux. That undercling is POLISHED. Found a knee-bar with a foot in the hole out right that made this thing pretty casual, but I still think it tends more towards 11b.
By Toby Butterfield
From: Portland, OR
Oct 5, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I feel... really good about the undercling. It doesn't feel polished to me at all. Maybe I'm using a different part of it?

I'll have to try the knee bar next time I'm up there.
By richard magill
May 12, 2012

tough start
By another Chad
Mar 24, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Blue Light Special feels harder than Toxic. Less fun too.

By pdxuller
Apr 14, 2014
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I don't know exactly why, but I hate this thing.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Sep 4, 2014

Sandbag. Maybe I am tired. Looked fun yet it is polished and has what seems like a harder than 11 move at the crux. I couldn't convince myself to work it as it was my last afternoon here.
By bheller
From: SL UT
Sep 6, 2014

It is a bit of a sandbag, but then so is Liquid Jade to the right. Get your feet up higher than you think you should at the undercling bit and take 11b if you need it.
By Tony Litke
From: La Crosse, Wisconsin
Mar 4, 2015
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I've seen people do this so many different ways. It's super height-beta dependent... I tend to avoid the giant Waco and double bump my left hand at the crux. It's smoothie-smooth sailing from there.

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