Blue Light Special
|1,722 page views|
all the protection bolts are showing, anchor is ju...
A great 5.11a on the far left end of Shipwreck. Slightly overhanging but with good holds and fun movement. I only wish it were longer!
6 bolts and a bolted anchor
clipping the 3rd bolt
|Comments on Blue Light Special
Jan 30, 2006
The undercling/start has gotten amazingly slimy and greasy, making it a bit less fun. I heard the good thumb catch for the right on that undercling had disintegrated a bit, too. Still a great route, though.
|By mark d|
Apr 18, 2006
good route that sees plenty of traffic.
it's rated 11b in the new watts guide.
|By Peter Franzen|
From: Phoenix, AZ
Apr 18, 2006
If the consensus is 11b then I can change it. It's been a few years since I've been on it.
Jun 19, 2006
while a good climb, it does not live up to its hype. try its neighbor, more sandy than kevin, for a better line.
|By Joel Sprenger|
From: Terrebonne, OR
Nov 28, 2007
This is a great route. I for some reason attempted to pull the route using the sucker- jug off to the right which then ruined my onsight. It is easier to clip the second bolt off of the jug, but hard trying to come into the undercling sequence afterwards. I don't know about 11b though?
|By Fred Gomez|
From: Lewisburg, WV
Dec 14, 2008
This is one of those routes that can feel really easy if you're strong and can make long reaches. If you're short the crux will probably feel annoying hard for the grade. This route, Toxic and License to Bolt are 11s that I have seen shorter climbers get frustrated on.
|By Eric Schnepel|
Apr 13, 2011
The second clip is for sure the crux. That undercling is POLISHED. Found a knee-bar with a foot in the hole out right that made this thing pretty casual, but I still think it tends more towards 11b.
|By Toby B|
Oct 5, 2011
I feel... really good about the undercling. It doesn't feel polished to me at all. Maybe I'm using a different part of it?
I'll have to try the knee bar next time I'm up there.
|By another Chad|
Mar 24, 2013
Blue Light Special feels harder than Toxic. Less fun too.