Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Central Gully
Select Route:
Blue In Green 
Footprints 
Helicopter Effect 
Magali's Arete 
Objectivist Tendencies 
Rational Expectations 
Seven Steps to Heaven 
Snickerdoodle 
Spontaneous Order 
Straight, No Chaser 
Tee it Up, Cupcake 

Blue In Green 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Romain Wacziarg, April 27, 2008
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,297
Submitted By: Romain Wacziarg on Apr 27, 2008
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Ascending "Blue in green"

Description 

Start to the right of the "Footprints" anchor, up slabs with 3 bolts and pass a prominent pine tree to its right. A #2 Camalot can be useful below the tree, and you can also sling the tree for added protection. A steep move (5.6) leads to easier climbing. Stay left at the top to exit directly onto Lunch Ledge. This is a varied pitch with interesting moves. It is a much better (and easier) way to access Lunch Ledge than ascending Snickerdoodle and rapping to the ledge.

Direct start variation: start in a gully about 10 yards to the right of the base of Footprints. Small gear and a bolt protect some low-fifth class moves to the start of the original route. This variation avoids the need to climb Footprints first. With this variation, the route is about 190 feet long.

WARNING: You cannot descend with one rappel (with a 60 meter rope) from Lunch Ledge to the base of Blue in Green. It is best to descent by rapping the gully to the right of Snickerdoodle, and then walk down to the anchors at the top of Footprints for the final rappel off the crag.


Location 

This route links the top of "Footprints" with the ledge at the base of "Rational Expectations" and "Magali's Arete".


Protection 

6 bolts to 2-bolt anchor (an additional bolt for the direct start). Optional #2 Camalot and a sling for the tree.



Photos of Blue In Green Slideshow Add Photo
April 25, 2008 - Bolting "Blue in Green". The climb follows the line of the rope. <br />Photo by Alain Delmas.
BETA PHOTO: April 25, 2008 - Bolting "Blue in Green". The clim...
Patty Fienup climbs the delicate slab on the first half of Blue & Green, in the Central Gully of the Fortress.
Patty Fienup climbs the delicate slab on the first...
Patty Fienup climbs through blocks near the top of Blue & Green, in the Central Gully of the Fortress.
Patty Fienup climbs through blocks near the top of...
Comments on Blue In Green Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Sep 24, 2008
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b PG13

I finally led this route yesterday, and I have to take my hat off to my friend Romain. What was originally envisioned as merely an approach pitch to other routes has proven to be a very worthy addition to the Fortress. This route is surprisingly sustained and boasts quality rock.

By Rob Chaney
Jul 16, 2009

Its possible to link this route with Footprints with a 70m rope I had about 20' of rope to spare.

By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
May 17, 2010
rating: Easy 5th 1+ 3 I M 1c

It is quite reasonable to lead this pitch without clipping any bolts.

By John Knight
Jan 19, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

Climbed this route yesterday w/Frank & Kelly. After reading some of the comments and looking at the topo, I was ready to give this zero stars. However, after climbing it, I was pleasantly surprised. I give it 2 stars! While it is possible to climb this and not clip any bolts (keep in mind it is also possible to solo 5.12), a new 5.6 leader will certainly appreciate the mix of bolts and trad protection. It is also quite reasonable to leave the rack in your car and only bring quick draws.

Frank leading "Blue in Green".
Frank leading "Blue in Green".

By Mark Fletcher
Jan 13, 2014

This is an excellent climb. I used an old-style 3.0 Camalot in a crack instead of slinging the tree. Lunch Ledge is a fantastic place to hang out.

By Trevor Roberson
From: Oxnard, California
Feb 3, 2014

This was a fun climb, it was better than what I expected. Maybe didn't need as many bolts but it still is a nice line. Runners and a 70m a must if linking with footsteps. I ended up linking the top 2 pitches together because some weather was on it's way in. It ended up snowing!