|322 page views|
Start up chossy rock for the first few bolts, be careful not to knock anything off here. Around the 4th? bolt a hard reach is encountered, from a sidepull up to a jug, I thought this was the crux. From here traverse left on easier ground to a seemingly detached pillar, surmount this and enjoy the no hands rest. There are two bolts you can clip here, seemed to me like clipping the right one would be a better fall.
From the ledge, make a few powerful moves on mostly good holds avoiding the pump on your way up to the anchors. Most people seemed to think the crux was in this section, in particular getting too and moving off a small three-finger pocket.
Leftmost route at the Surfbowl
12 Bolts to Anchors
Mar 24, 2009
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a
This is a nice example of a route that shouldn't have been bolted. More than half the route is on crap rock complete with lots of glue. The climbing after the huge rest is fun but way too short to make the choss worthwhile.
For what it's worth, we thought that when the parallel bolts were encountered, the left one was for Bluefin and the right was for the linkup with Surfer Rosa.
|By Curt MacNeill|
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 26, 2012
Pile of choss. Not really worth climbing....
|By Jack Sparrow|
From: denver, co
Mar 6, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
This route is cleaning up nicely and after the second bolt the rock quality drastically improves overall a good route.