|US Highway 550
Blue Condition is a nice variation to the second pitch of Kennedy’s Gully. It basically consists of 2 pitches of steeper ice. Approach as for Kennedy’s Gully; i.e. hike back down towards Ouray from the Engineer Pass parking area for a few hundred feet until another gully is on your right. Climb the gully to the base of the ice. A short pitch of WI 3 or so will serve as a starter. Next, slog up the short snow slop above the 1st pitch to reach a small amphitheater that forms the start of the 2nd pitch of Kennedy’s Gully. To your right should be the start of Blue Condition.
Blue Condition is about 100 meters long. Maybe the best approach would be to split it into 2 pitches. Climb up a ways to get past the first curtain and look for a belay, perhaps on the right. Climb a second pitch to a tree at the top of the ice, or continue up into the woods above. Rappel from trees and V-threads. This route should be in for most of the winter. Enjoy.
Take 2 ropes, a selection of ice screws, and maybe some rock gear if the ice is thin.
|By Bryan Gilmore|
From: Your Mama
Feb 8, 2008
Excellent variation to P1 of Blue Condition. Simply veer left at the obvious chim./gully and follow small pillar, chimney and thin ice up and back right to a great belay on spacious ledge behind pillar. Probably 70m to the belay expect thought provoking but never desperate climbing. Bring some screws (stubbies) and a few sm/med cams. Don't expect too much good gear though. P2 follow good thick ice to the top.
|By Mike Willig|
Feb 25, 2008
You can just barely reach the deck in 1 rappel from the tree at top of the route with a pair of 70s.