Blue Condition is a nice variation to the second pitch of Kennedys Gully. It basically consists of 2 pitches of steeper ice. Approach as for Kennedys Gully; i.e. hike back down towards Ouray from the Engineer Pass parking area for a few hundred feet until another gully is on your right. Climb the gully to the base of the ice. A short pitch of WI 3 or so will serve as a starter. Next, slog up the short snow slop above the 1st pitch to reach a small amphitheater that forms the start of the 2nd pitch of Kennedys Gully. To your right should be the start of Blue Condition.
Blue Condition is about 100 meters long. Maybe the best approach would be to split it into 2 pitches. Climb up a ways to get past the first curtain and look for a belay, perhaps on the right. Climb a second pitch to a tree at the top of the ice, or continue up into the woods above. Rappel from trees and V-threads. This route should be in for most of the winter. Enjoy.
Take 2 ropes, a selection of ice screws, and maybe some rock gear if the ice is thin.
Kevin Fox on his way up the first pitch.
With help from our guide buddy, Jayson, speeding u...
Left hand variation. Eric Wright, Jan. 2015. Phot...
Nice variation to the first pitch of Condition Blu...
Looking down lower part of chimney, in the left ha...
Jayson rapping after enjoying a day away from the ...
By Bryan Gilmore
From: Ridgway, CO
Feb 8, 2008
Excellent variation to P1 of Blue Condition. Simply veer left at the obvious chim./gully and follow small pillar, chimney and thin ice up and back right to a great belay on spacious ledge behind pillar. Probably 70m to the belay expect thought provoking but never desperate climbing. Bring some screws (stubbies) and a few sm/med cams. Don't expect too much good gear though. P2 follow good thick ice to the top.
By Mike Willig
Feb 25, 2008
You can just barely reach the deck in 1 rappel from the tree at top of the route with a pair of 70s.