Blue Collar Crack 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 185 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | C. Watson, G. Kirchhoff, D. Ward, B. Perkins |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Sunny-D on Jun 12, 2008 |
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Gregg on the FA
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Description Pitch 1: Climb the arete up to a high bolt and contiue up to the base of a sweeping crack or begin the climb in the corner on the left using the small crack in the wall for gear. Either way, once at the headwall climb to a comfortable stance and stand in a right sweeping, arching crack the starts horizontally. Follow the crack proper all the way up to a set of anchors. (115 feet)
Pitch 2: Lean right off the anchor and follow a double crack system to a great stance and chain anchor. (65 feet)
This route was cleaned out by Gregg, Clay and Dallen.
Location This Route starts in/on the corner just west of Zesty. Climb the arete proper to a bolt and continue up until you reach the base of the swooping crack or follow the left-side corner up and step on the shelf 50 feet up.
Protection Standard rack -- nuts, tcu's through 3.5 or 4 BD cam. There are a total of 3 sets and chain anchors for the rap. Can be done with a 60 M rope.
Pitch one can be done from the ground and back using a 70m rope only. If you do this Watch Your Ends as a 70m will just barely get you back to the belay.
Looking down Blue Collar Crack
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BETA PHOTO: Original line in red starts climbing on the arete ...
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| Comments on Blue Collar Crack |
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By Sir Camsalot
From: thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Jun 12, 2008
| Great route! The crux upper crack is not your typical crack and will sure have you thinking! Nice work on the gardening. |
By tenesmus
Jun 13, 2008
| It took us about 40 hours to clean this thing out. Hence the name. The crack is serrated in the middle and under what seemed like thousands of years of dirt and debris. Cool finger, hand and fist jamming and strangely, part of the crack lets you do all 3 at once. You don't really need bigger than a #3 camalot (if you don't have one) as there is optional small gear in the crack where that #4 can go. Might be 5.9.
You can easily TR the really cool unknown slab to the right of this route. This is a fun lead and we gave it some much needed tlc and scrubbing. After scrubbing everything down we even swept that whole face with a push broom. |
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Sep 22, 2008
rating: 5.9
| Weird stuff for sure, really uncommon features in the crack. The crux was at the top for me when it gets steep and the lock/jams get more spaced. Interesting pro the whole way, not as straightforward as I'm used to. I didn't take the #4 and got away with a #3 and micros.
The scrub oak at the end of the wide section has grown back to a pretty hefty size, makes for a bushwack halfway up the route.
I'll go back up to do the second pitch as we finsished on redneck slab. |
By zoso
Sep 23, 2008
rating: 5.9+
| Glad yo enjoyed. Me and Ten noticed the new plantlife as well. We/Dallen will try to whhaaaacckk it soon. To all: Feel free to clean/remove any vegetation. Let the ethics battles begin :) |
By Shaun Greene
From: www.UtahShaun.com
Oct 27, 2008
| This crack is so cool...It would be a shame to have the climb ruined by the scrub oak coming back. Nice work on this route, it is my favorite in the area. |
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Nov 22, 2008
| Very interesting for sure. We wondered why the crack looked so funky. Fun lead. We also did the line that contines up and left of the main crack. This followed the clean LB's up into the stemming on the right most edge of the huge flake that cuts the chimney in half. Does anyone know what this line is called? |
By Tristan Higbee
From: Mexico
Nov 22, 2008
rating: 5.8+
| Fun climb. It looks like the crack is riddled with giant pin scars (even though I know that's not what they are). We did the more direct version that's marked in the topo pic on this page. |
By Michael Buchanan
Apr 26, 2010
rating: 5.9
| DO THIS CLIMB! the upper crack is weird but fun, the lower part is sinker with cool moves. |
By lovinspoonful
Apr 22, 2012
| I totally onsighted the shit out of this route the other day. |
By zoso
Apr 23, 2012
rating: 5.9+
| Totally! |
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