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Lizard Head Wall
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Another Day At The Office T 
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Manager's Special T 
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Unsorted Routes:

Blue Collar Crack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 185'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: C. Watson, G. Kirchhoff, D. Ward, B. Perkins
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,065
Submitted By: Sunny-D on Jun 12, 2008

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Gregg on the FA

Description 

Pitch 1: Climb the arete up to a high bolt and contiue up to the base of a sweeping crack or begin the climb in the corner on the left using the small crack in the wall for gear. Either way, once at the headwall climb to a comfortable stance and stand in a right sweeping, arching crack the starts horizontally. Follow the crack proper all the way up to a set of anchors. (115 feet)

Pitch 2: Lean right off the anchor and follow a double crack system to a great stance and chain anchor. (65 feet)

This route was cleaned out by Gregg, Clay and Dallen.


Location 

This Route starts in/on the corner just west of Zesty. Climb the arete proper to a bolt and continue up until you reach the base of the swooping crack or follow the left-side corner up and step on the shelf 50 feet up.


Protection 

Standard rack -- nuts, tcu's through 3.5 or 4 BD cam. There are a total of 3 sets and chain anchors for the rap. Can be done with a 60 M rope.

Pitch one can be done from the ground and back using a 70m rope only. If you do this Watch Your Ends as a 70m will just barely get you back to the belay.



Photos of Blue Collar Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Upper section of first pitch. Really fun climbing.
Upper section of first pitch. Really fun climbing.
Looking down Blue Collar Crack
Looking down Blue Collar Crack
Original line in red starts climbing on the arete and crosses the small gully into the sweeping crack.  <br /> <br />A more recent and direct version climbs the purple line.  <br /> <br />There is a mid-point anchor shown in green as well as another at the top of p2.
BETA PHOTO: Original line in red starts climbing on the arete ...
Just before stepping over to the second bolt. A contrived way to start, but fun.
Just before stepping over to the second bolt. A co...
Comments on Blue Collar Crack Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 9, 2014
By Sir Camsalot
From: thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Jun 12, 2008

Great route! The crux upper crack is not your typical crack and will sure have you thinking! Nice work on the gardening.

By tenesmus
Jun 13, 2008

It took us about 40 hours to clean this thing out. Hence the name. The crack is serrated in the middle and under what seemed like thousands of years of dirt and debris. Cool finger, hand and fist jamming and strangely, part of the crack lets you do all 3 at once. You don't really need bigger than a #3 camalot (if you don't have one) as there is optional small gear in the crack where that #4 can go. Might be 5.9.

You can easily TR the really cool unknown slab to the right of this route. This is a fun lead and we gave it some much needed tlc and scrubbing. After scrubbing everything down we even swept that whole face with a push broom.

By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Sep 22, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Weird stuff for sure, really uncommon features in the crack. The crux was at the top for me when it gets steep and the lock/jams get more spaced. Interesting pro the whole way, not as straightforward as I'm used to. I didn't take the #4 and got away with a #3 and micros.
The scrub oak at the end of the wide section has grown back to a pretty hefty size, makes for a bushwack halfway up the route.
I'll go back up to do the second pitch as we finsished on redneck slab.

By zoso
Sep 23, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Glad yo enjoyed. Me and Ten noticed the new plantlife as well. We/Dallen will try to whhaaaacckk it soon. To all: Feel free to clean/remove any vegetation. Let the ethics battles begin :)

By Shaun Greene
From: www.UtahShaun.com
Oct 27, 2008

This crack is so cool...It would be a shame to have the climb ruined by the scrub oak coming back. Nice work on this route, it is my favorite in the area.

By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Nov 22, 2008

Very interesting for sure. We wondered why the crack looked so funky. Fun lead. We also did the line that contines up and left of the main crack. This followed the clean LB's up into the stemming on the right most edge of the huge flake that cuts the chimney in half. Does anyone know what this line is called?

By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
Nov 22, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun climb. It looks like the crack is riddled with giant pin scars (even though I know that's not what they are). We did the more direct version that's marked in the topo pic on this page.

By Michael Buchanan
Apr 26, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

DO THIS CLIMB! the upper crack is weird but fun, the lower part is sinker with cool moves.

By lovinspoonful
Apr 22, 2012

I totally onsighted the shit out of this route the other day.

By zoso
Apr 23, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Totally!

By Mr. Hummus
From: SLC, Utah
Nov 10, 2013

The first long pitch is really fun. Just a few 5.9 moves. The second pitch is not as cool but worth doing to get to the top of the formation. If I were to do it again I would cut left from the anchors and do the slab to the top. Not sure what that variation is called but it looks more exciting.

By tenesmus
Nov 10, 2013

Mr Hummus, its the Redneck Slab

By zoso
Nov 10, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Yup, the 2nd pitch aint that great.

By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 9, 2014

A #4 is nice to have, but not required. Could be protected before and after easily. There's just a great stance where it's convenient to plug in a #4.

Make sure to bring a good amount of runners for this climb, especially if you do the original start. Also a 70m didn't quite lower me down from the chains. Some funkiness had to be worked out in the chimney. 70m does rap down quite comfortably though (route just wanders a bit).