Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Christian Brothers - East Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Am I Evil? S 
Asterisk, The T 
Attic Antics T 
Barbecue The Pope S 
Blasphemy S 
Blue Balls T 
Bowling Alley T 
Boy Prophet S 
Charlie's Chimney T 
Child's Play T 
Choke On This S 
Culture of Fear S 
Dancer S 
Deep Splash S 
Double Trouble S 
Dreamin' S 
Earth Boys S 
El Sancho S 
Golgotha T 
Gothic Cathedral/Last Gasp T 
Heathen's Highway T,S 
Heresy S 
Hesitation Blues T 
Holy Road, The S 
Irreverence S 
Jete S 
Kathleen Finds An Edge S 
La Shootist S 
left side of the Beard, The T 
Little Indian Princess S 
Lunatic To Love S 
Mark Cartier Memorial (MCM) Route , The S 
New Testament T 
Nightingale's on Vacation S 
Old Testament T 
Overnight Sensation S 
Panic Attack S 
Rawhide S 
Revelations S 
right side of the Beard, The T 
Ring of Fire S 
Rude Boys S 
Rude Femmes S 
Scarface S 
Self Preservation Variation T 
Shoes of the Fisherman T 
Smooth Boy S 
That 10d S 
That First Step S 
Toy Blocks T 
Toys In The Attic T 
Via Dolorosa S 
Wartley's Revenge T 

Blue Balls 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b X

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b X [details]
Page Views: 905
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Mar 27, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Seasonal Raptor Closure 2016 MORE INFO >>>


This route is down-right dangerous for the leader. With virtually no pro for the first 30 feet, any mistake will put you in the hospital or worse. However, the route is easily toproped (via Hesitation Blues), and makes an excellent jaunt on a hot day when shade is desired.

The route begins with easy climbing to a shallow crack where the first worthless #1 TCU placement is found. Another ten feet up on steadily shrinking crimps leads to a worthless RP placement, and a horizontal pocket that looks like it might take a cam, but probably won't. Next is the crux: step up high with the left foot, then rock-over onto the foot using a good sidepull in the seam. Cross your right hand over to a heavily chalked flake hold. From here you can place the first piece of gear that might arrest a fall.

From here continue with relative ease into the upper bit of Hesitation Blues and its plentiful gear placements.


Begin 10 feet right of Hesitation Blues, (and 20 feet right of Ring of Fire) in the "Toy Blocks" alley.


If leading, bring at least #3, 4, 5, & 6 RPs, 0-2 TCUs, 2 x .5 Camalot and one #1, #2 Camalot. 2 Bolt chain anchor.

Comments on Blue Balls Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!