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Blue Balls 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b X

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
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Submitted By: Monomaniac on Mar 27, 2007
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This route is down-right dangerous for the leader. With virtually no pro for the first 30 feet, any mistake will put you in the hospital or worse. However, the route is easily toproped (via Hesitation Blues), and makes an excellent jaunt on a hot day when shade is desired.

The route begins with easy climbing to a shallow crack where the first worthless #1 TCU placement is found. Another ten feet up on steadily shrinking crimps leads to a worthless RP placement, and a horizontal pocket that looks like it might take a cam, but probably won't. Next is the crux: step up high with the left foot, then rock-over onto the foot using a good sidepull in the seam. Cross your right hand over to a heavily chalked flake hold. From here you can place the first piece of gear that might arrest a fall.

From here continue with relative ease into the upper bit of Hesitation Blues and its plentiful gear placements.


Begin 10 feet right of Hesitation Blues, (and 20 feet right of Ring of Fire) in the "Toy Blocks" alley.


If leading, bring at least #3, 4, 5, & 6 RPs, 0-2 TCUs, 2 x .5 Camalot and one #1, #2 Camalot. 2 Bolt chain anchor.

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