|Original:||YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA:||Mike Roth, Paul Sullivan 1989|
|Submitted By:||Jake Jones on Oct 30, 2013|
|Comments on Blue Angel||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By P. Sully
Jan 22, 2015
For the record:
the original Blue Angel was a trad line that climbed to the right 5' about where the 2nd bolt is now, and then went straight up passing a single bolt just before the top.
Mike Roth; on the first ascent attempt, led all the way to the top of the route and fell on the finishing mantle move. He fell 39'; ripping his top two placements, and was caught by a funky TCU just before he hit the deck 40' below.
The next day we placed a single bolt where the gear ripped and led the route. We named the route Blue Angel in honor of the air show on the FA attempt.
Doug Cosby later bolted the line just left of Blue Angel which climbs the same rock for the first two bolts, then his route goes straight up to the anchor.
not sure why he only put in one cold shut for the anchor. saving 5 bucks perhaps.
the trad corner Blood Doners (10d) starting on the ledge above is a worthy send; as is High Octane(10c), the arete to the left which has a few bolts.
By Jake Jones
From: Richmond, VA
Jan 22, 2015
|Cool! Thanks for the history!|