Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Smooth Sole Wall - Left Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blown Out T 
Down and Out T 
Drowned Out T 
Last Dance T 
Over and Out S,TR 
Steppin' Out T 

Blown Out 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Greg Bender and Phil Warrender, June 1972
Page Views: 313
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Jan 26, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

This is a good, one pitch face route. It is well protected except for a runout on moderate ground below the first bolt. It's in the sun all day.

Protection 

4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor


Comments on Blown Out Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dave Daly
From: Del Mar, CA
Apr 6, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Could use a bolt after the first bolt too!
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Apr 6, 2009

Dave, your comment is confusing to me. Disagree with the runout, but like the idea of added protection? Help me out!
By Adam Kimmerly
Oct 24, 2011

Getting to the first bolt provides the first bit of excitement, moreso if you're under maybe 5'7" or so. The moves aren't that hard, they just have big consequences. The second bolt isn't far after the first, but getting to the third puts you back into ground-fall territory. The line I took to get there wasn't hard, but still had some slightly insecure smeary moves right before getting to the bolt. It might be better to follow the ramp up to a spot right below the bolt, then climb up to it. The bulge at the third bolt is an in-your-face, "where'd all the holds go" kind of crux. I won't spoil the beta, but I will say that after falling a couple of times onto that bolt, the sequence that got me through the crux without too much difficulty was not via the more obvious line of chalked holds. Past the crux moves, smear your way up to and clip the 4th bolt. Once again think to yourself "ok, now the holds are REALLY gone!" Smear your way up the "feets do't fail me now" slab to the finish.