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Pitch 1. Blowhard.
A technical looking line to the left of the Polish route, on the NW prow of The Hulk.
Many small wires. All bolted anchors, setup for rappel with a 70m rope.
Kev, entering the crux splitter. With a bit of the...
Looking up the top part of the crux SPLITTER. Stee...
P4. Psyched to be climbing 5.10 hands!
|By Nick Stayner|
From: The Magic City
Aug 30, 2010
Yeah Neil, did you climb this rig or what?
Aug 20, 2011
I climbed this route with my friend Kevin on a recent trip. This thing is totally worth doing and typical of the Hulk: Amazing rock, challenging climbing and pretty much one crack system the whole way. I have a blurry topo somewhere but it will just as easy to describe:
P1: Climb the rt facing corner just left of the start of the Polish. Clip a bolt at the lip of the roof and climb over it on its left side (5.11) to face climbing past two more bolts. A bit of a runout on easier ground gets you up and right to two more bolts (5.12) to gain the thin crack. Climb this to a stance with one good bolt and a nut.
P2: Climb the crack system straight up and a bit left to the bolted anchor at the base of the crux pitch.(5.10)
P3: Climb the short offwidth to bolted face climbing to gain the crux splitter. Climb the splitter just left of the arete to a stance with a nice bolted anchor. (12+)
P4: Step right around the arete off the anchor and climb an awesome 5.10 splitter crack, stepping right into the next crack system and back left to a bolted belay.
P5: Climb up and left to a short corner with a pin and a fixed offset nut (5.10+ish). Climb straight up to a ledge and belay below a left-leaning undercling.
P6: Undercling left into the final stemming corner with bolts.(5.11+)
We didn't bring a topo and accidentally missed the last pitch by climbing up and right after the short corner with the pin, onto the Polish route? We rapped over the final pitch, it looks rad, we'll have to go back!
We brought a double set from black alien/purple C3 to #2Camalot and a single 3 camalot. Kevin ran it out a bit on the short offwidth below the crux, but the climbing wasn't bad. I believe we brought offset brass but I don't remember needing them. Pretty standard Hulk rack. One important NOTE: I think Neil mentions this route being set up for rappel with a 70 meter rope (Neil, did you rap with a 70?). We brought an 80 and found it crucial. Oh, and this beta we got from Jake proved accurate and helpful: from the base of the crux pitch you rappel climbers' left into the gully in one rap with the 80.
Hope this helps. What an amazing route. It deserves more attention.