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Blotto AKA Axis 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Henry Barber, Ajax Greene, 5/1975
Page Views: 760
Submitted By: Alexey on Feb 18, 2010
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  • Description 

    The route mostly right facing flake with different jamming. Boldery start on left from pedestal and easier start on right to establish in the crack. Than layback over small rooflet and than strangely strenuous overhanging hands and thin hands to the last roof. There are a big distance between tight hands jams at the crux, so work with your feet and body position to reach them.
    In the end of the roof fixed gear and slings allowed you to be lowered with 70 m rope. The other choice - continue traverse (~10-15 feet) right to to bolts anckor ( presumably crux of the route, but I did not tried )


    Location 

    Next to Entrance Exam ( right)


    Protection 

    3x 0.5" to 2", 2#3 , one 3.5" 70m rope



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    By Osprey
    From: ...
    Jan 6, 2012

    cleaned by Kevin Worrall, Mark Chapman, 1975 FA: Henry Barber, Ajax Greene, 5/1975