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> E Crags (DBC Canyon)
Bloody Slab
5.7+ YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
Routes in E Crags (DBC Canyon)
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Bloody Slab T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Day of Atonement T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Day of Endless Chocolate T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Death by Chocolate T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Endless Journey 5.8+ T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Fun Size T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Road to Mecca, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Paul Ross,Sheriden and Layne Potter. Sept 18 2003 |
| Page Views: | 1,313 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Paul Ross on May 10, 2010 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
As the climbs in this area are becoming more popular some older first ascents that were not recorded are now being posted in case climbers wish to find lines for their own first ascents.The route climbs the large slab formation on the left side of the Death by Chocolate slot canyon...The base of the slab features blood red rock hence the name.. Only 2 pitches are technical but the 5.7 friction is a good introduction to this grade of slab . Starts in a tree filled alcove directly below an obvious right facing corner. Scramble 150' to the start of the corner.
P1). Follow an indefinite crack about 8' right of the corner. The corner ends at 100' Continue for another 100' to a groove and cam belays. 200'. 5.7+. From here 4th class about 250' to the base of a clean open slab that lies between two grooves.
P2)Climb the slab direct to double anchors. 190 ' 5.4R. Many hundreds of feet of excellent 4th class slab to the summit.
Descent . One rap down the 5.4 slab. From these anchors rap to the right (north) and locate easy 4th class grooves that lead to the ground.
P1). Follow an indefinite crack about 8' right of the corner. The corner ends at 100' Continue for another 100' to a groove and cam belays. 200'. 5.7+. From here 4th class about 250' to the base of a clean open slab that lies between two grooves.
P2)Climb the slab direct to double anchors. 190 ' 5.4R. Many hundreds of feet of excellent 4th class slab to the summit.
Descent . One rap down the 5.4 slab. From these anchors rap to the right (north) and locate easy 4th class grooves that lead to the ground.
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