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 ADVANCED
Dirty Crack Boulder
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arthritis 
Arthritis Sit 
Bloody Phalanges 
Dirty Crack 
Hemolysis - Sit Start 
Jugular 
Scabbers 
Stinger Mantis 
Wizard 

Bloody Phalanges 

Hueco: V6 Font: 7A

   
Type:  Boulder, 11'
Consensus:  Hueco: V4- Font: 6B [details]
FA: Sam Hayden
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 397
Submitted By: freezeus on Jul 12, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

Stand Start 6 feet left of stinger mantis, right hand on sharp 1/4 pad crimp, left hand on 2-3 finger half pad sloper crimp, get feet on, bump left hand to 1/2 pad two finger and thumb pinch, right hand to bad sloper, get feet up and go for jugs straight above right hand then top out on jugs.

Location 

left of Stinger Mantis on side of Dirty Crack Boulder

Protection 

pad and spotter


Comments on Bloody Phalanges Add Comment
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By rogerk
Jul 15, 2011

Has anything been done to the left of this? It looks like a few holds have been cleaned, and the side pull immediately left of BP looks to be a part of something.
By freezeus
From: Pittsfield, VT
Jul 15, 2011

Thanks for the comments...we've cleaned some stuff left of bp and I think there would be a fun easy traverse starting at the far left and traversing using the good holds on top all he way to just before the tree
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jul 22, 2015
rating: V4- 6B

This is a fun boulder problem although I think it is much easier than the suggested grade, this might be because I am tall.

My beta was also a little different than the beta in the video. I started as Sam started but instead of moving left, I skipped the move out and left and I immediately went right hand out to the sloper, moved my left food up to a good edge and reached for the jug above. For me it felt v3/4 for a short climber I think it would be hard v4.
By freezeus
From: Pittsfield, VT
Jul 28, 2015

Thanks for the feedback Matt - I think the way Sam originally did it - when he was 18" shorter was definitely in the hard V6 range. Even now trying to do it with his original beta is hard - We'll have to give it a go with your beta.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jul 28, 2015
rating: V4- 6B

Yeah if you couldn't use the large foot rail for the first couple moves it would feel way harder for sure!!! I also thought the move going out left looked hard. I would be interested to see what you guys think with the beta I used.
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