Bloody Mary 

LOVED THIS CLIMB!!! Did it twice cuz we left our anchor at the top of P2. I got to lead P1 and P2.

Beta alert: Don't read if you don't want beta. P2: Start off by traversing left on easy ground, don't place gear, you will have rope drag. Start placing when you start up towards the roof and extend (long runners) every piece until you turn the 2nd roof. Climb up to the first roof, pull it, use the little tree with rings/slings for a piece. Traverse right (it's all there, really!) and pull the second roof. Just reach up, over the roof and you will find a really sweet lip. Pull it and enjoy the cruiser up to the GT ledge.

The Gray Dick upgraded this climb to a 5.7 for P1. I agree, there is a 7ish crux. Although P1 is a great pitch, P2 is the money pitch. I think this is a 3 star climb. Where can you get two fun, exposed roofs at such a soft rating? Awesome climb.

I did Bloody Mary on Saturday. The gear is great the whole way up--including the 5.3 walk up above the P2 roof. I do know that there was a severe spinal injury that took place on this route last autumn. Someone fell while clipping their 3rd piece and their second piece came unclipped some how. I can't see how this is a function of the route however.

The first two pitches of this climb are total awesomeness. I loved the first pitch and the second was even better. I can't think of another 5.6 pitch in the Trapps that requires you to place gear (at least two pieces if you're thinking of yourself AND your second) in such an overhanging position. Really nice, and I thought the pro on both of the first two pitches was fine.

I guess most people don't do the third pitch. I wouldn't recommend it. Dirty, sandy, not the best pro. I had to excavate a crack or two so I could put pieces in. And towards the top it becomes a total bushwhack through lichen, dirt and dead branches. Next time I would head to the climber's left at the top of pitch two and rap off the Drunkard's tree.

Finally, I know I'm a broken record on this subject at mountain project, but I would avoid the optional belay tree at the top of the first pitch. The tree is none too big in the first place, and it is nearly dead. If you wish to belay at this location it is easy to build a gear anchor.

Fun to link the first pitch with the second pitch of Morning After (5.7) to the GT ledge.

Did the Bloody Mary --> morning after link up today.. mostly by accident but kinda had a feeling I was. Definitely a nice way to do it.. i didn't like the idea of the left then right traversing.

I did the link-up with Morning After which was fantastic. At the GT ledge I ended up walking about 30 ft to climber's right and did the last pitch of Uncle Rudy (5.7+). Well worth your time...wild hand traverse around the corner then a great, tough little roof. From the top of Uncle Rudy there's a rap tree about 20 ft to climber's left along the ledge. This gets you down to another rap tree and from there down to one more.