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 ADVANCED
Upper Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bean Pole T,TR 
Bishop T,TR 
Bloody Fingers TR 
Chamonix TR 
Chimney, The T,TR 
Climber's Corner T 
Desperate Depression T,TR 
Diagonal T 
Double Chin T 
Double Jam T 
Fantastic Face TR 
Far Out Jam T,TR 
Far Out Jam Right T,TR 
High Anxiety (aka Silicon Shoes) TR 
Horn, The T 
Kiddie's Korner T,TR 
Loose Flake Polka TR 
Max Factor T 
Ms. Pac Man T 
No Answer T,TR 
Obscene Phone Call T 
PB & J T,TR 
Pee Pee The Sailor TR 
Roof, The T 
Short Stuff T,TR 
Start, The T 
Tramp, The T,TR 
Yellow Zonkers T,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Bloody Fingers 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  TR, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 927
Submitted By: lee hansche on May 6, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Travis digging the kneebar!

Description 

I'm not sure of the history of this climb. I figured I'd put a name on it cause i think it's one of my favorites on the cliff right now and I want others to check it out. If anyone knows if it has a real name please let me know and I'll add it. I will post a photo topo soon.

Between Bishop and Climbers Corner there is a narrow chimney, climb the chimney until you can climb on to the face hand traversing 8 feet right on good holds. A fun heel hook move gets you to jugs. Climb 10 feet of moderate rock to a narrow ledge. To here it is around 5.7, but to gain the top you need to climb the VERY thin finger crack (5.10) in a shallow left facing corner to good crimps and the perfect top out.

Location 

Between Bishop and Climbers Corner, start in the tight chimney and trend up and right to end up above Climber's Corner.

Protection 

I TRed it but there might be options for protection. I didn't look.


Photos of Bloody Fingers Slideshow Add Photo
This is the line, very fun... let me know if it go...
This is the line, very fun... let me know if it go...
Travis... stylin'
Travis... stylin'
Travis on the crux...
Travis on the crux...
Austin on the upper crack crux
Austin on the upper crack crux

Comments on Bloody Fingers Add Comment
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By Christopher Gagne
From: Dover
May 16, 2012

Lee, after looking at the old '95 guide to Pawtuckaway the route you posted looks & sounds like Bloody Fingers 5.9+ PG

"Ascend the first 10 feet of Wedged Chimney. Step right to ledge on Rescue Wall face. Move right to small facing corner with crack. Ascend crack and face above it to top.
Var: Sausage Fingers 5.7+: From small left facing corner with crack move just right of crack to face of block. Face climb block up a few feet until it is possible to move left to face above crack. Climb face to top."

Haven't climbed it yet but been meaning to... Looks like a lot fun...

If you're up for a challenge there's a 5.12 that goes up between Bloody Fingers and the Climbers Corner...
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 16, 2012

awesome ill change the name... thanks for the info... the name is fitting haha... the grade is a bit of a sandbag but hey that's par for the Pawtuckaway course so i changed that too... plan to work "5.10+ hard" for those few crack moves
ill have to check out that direct line at some point... sounds interesting...
By Christopher Gagne
From: Dover
May 18, 2012

Your welcome for the info. on the route.

Well the grade could be on par... Seeing that an old school 5.9+ could be just as hard as 5.10b. If I understood correctly from another forum site that hit upon the subject of ratings a while back...