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Devils Doorway
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bloody Finger T 
Doorway Chimney T,TR 
Impossible Crack T,TR 
Romper T 

Bloody Finger 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 25'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
Page Views: 473
Submitted By: Doug Hemken on Nov 1, 2010

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My six year old son cleaning Bloody Finger 5.6


"A fall from this knife-edged crack can be messy. This climb follows a thin crack near the northwest edge of the south pillar of the Doorway. Begin on a bench 6 ft. above the ground." (1970 Climbers and Hikers Guide)


On the west side of the Doorway's south pillar. You can mount the initial ledge either from the south or the west.


A couple of half inch nuts or cams.

Photos of Bloody Finger Slideshow Add Photo
Alex and I on top!
Alex and I on top!
Mike uses the sharp crack
Mike uses the sharp crack
Trying to get as high on rock (climbing.. that is) as possible along a multi-pitch outing at Major Mass.  This one is the final pitch.  I was trying to make it seem harder by hauling and over sized rack along.  "Bloody Finger".  Bloody hot and bloody crowded with touristers below.
Trying to get as high on rock (climbing.. that is)...
Comments on Bloody Finger Add Comment
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By Josh Olson
From: madison, wisconsin
Jul 5, 2013

So short, so sharp, worth it once. Impossible Crack is way better.

By Gokul
Apr 20, 2014

There's a nice direct (V2) start on the face and arete below the crack, to gain the ledge from where you take the crack to the top.