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Devils Doorway
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bloody Finger T 
Doorway Chimney T,TR 
Impossible Crack T,TR 
Romper T 

Bloody Finger 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 772
Submitted By: Doug Hemken on Nov 1, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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My six year old son cleaning Bloody Finger 5.6

Description 

"A fall from this knife-edged crack can be messy. This climb follows a thin crack near the northwest edge of the south pillar of the Doorway. Begin on a bench 6 ft. above the ground." (1970 Climbers and Hikers Guide)

Location 

On the west side of the Doorway's south pillar. You can mount the initial ledge either from the south or the west.

Protection 

A couple of half inch nuts or cams.


Photos of Bloody Finger Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Alex and I on top!
Alex and I on top!
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike uses the sharp crack
Mike uses the sharp crack
Rock Climbing Photo: Dunbar
Dunbar
Rock Climbing Photo: Trying to get as high on rock (climbing.. that is)...
Trying to get as high on rock (climbing.. that is)...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sunset top of Devils Doorway
Sunset top of Devils Doorway

Comments on Bloody Finger Add Comment
Show which comments
By Josh Olson
From: Durango, CO
Jul 5, 2013

So short, so sharp, worth it once. Impossible Crack is way better.
By Gokul
Apr 20, 2014

There's a nice direct (V2) start on the face and arete below the crack, to gain the ledge from where you take the crack to the top.

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