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River Road Dihedrals
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Bloody Elbows 
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Bloody Elbows 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jimmy Dunn, Doug Snively, 1972
Page Views: 1,583
Submitted By: J. Hickok on May 20, 2002
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"Bloody Elbow" route with anchors shown

Description 

This route is a great lead for the beginner leader who is not yet ready for many of the 5.10 desert climbs. When you look up at the River Road Dihedrals, the route is the most obvious splitter with rappel slings in the right side of a chimney about 85-90 ft up.

Begin with easy face moves on rock of poorer quality. I felt like it was more scenic to belay from the anchors... after tying off long you can even peek over the lip and watch the progress of the second.

Rappel: was able to make the soft sand off a single 60 meter rope, which indicates that the route description is incorrect in the Desert Rock II guide.

After doing this, try Bloody Knees for a longer more sustained and wider climb. If you do Bloody Knees, remember that it requires a larger rack and two ropes to rappel. (Hint: bring wide gear!)


Protection 

Smaller stoppers to protect off the ground. Set of friends, with a couple extra camalots in the .75 to 2 range. Used a 4 friend up high, and a 5 friend is optional.



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By Scott Conner
From: Lyons, CO
May 6, 2003

As of 5/5/03, the key sidepull used to get into the crack has broken off. This might put the crux about 10 ft. off the deck.

Good crack climb for the grade. A 4 or 4.5 Camalot is useful for the final 20 ft. Also, I believe this climb is called River Road Dihedral East in Knapp's Classic Desert Climbs and maybe Bjornstad's guide as well.

By Eric Odenthal
Sep 19, 2008

good route. 4.5 for the top is good beta. anchor is in pretty good condition.