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Bloody Bolts and Brown Trousers 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a A0

   
Type: Trad, Aid, 8 pitches, 700'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a A0 [details]
FA: Bruce Burgess, Nathan Brown
Season: spring, fall
Page Views: 1,236
Submitted By: nbrown on Dec 21, 2009
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  • Description 

    I'm going to try to remember the details here but it has been a few years since this route was done. This route gets shade earliest of the headwall routes as it is on the far left side. It can also be split into two climbs by the massive tree ledge, either by doing the first half and bailing, or traversing in and climbing only the top half.

    P-1 Climb up the corner past gear to a bolt that protects the traverse right to the other corner. Follow this past gear and a pin to an awkward move onto the face. Climb past 2 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. This is a good cragging pitch but is a spicy and strenuous lead! 5.11

    P-2 Climb up and left on huge holds past 2 bolts and gear to a 2 bolt anchor. 5.8+

    P-3 Climb up thin face past a bolt to a steeper section in orange rock. Continue up and left past another bolt to easier terrain. Continue up to tree, or optional 2 bolt belay (on different route). Note: the bolt count may be off. 5.10+

    P-4 Climb up the easy but run out face to a steeper section protected with 2 large bolts. Follow this to the "Port O Call" ledge. Move belay up to high part of ledge for pitch 5. 5.10+

    Edit: This pitch had some recent hold breakage and may need an additional bolt for pro (protecting the move up to the first).

    P-5 Climb a short section of increadibly rotten rock to bolts and perhaps a stopperhead. Continue up and right past gear and maybe one more bolt to a ledge with a single bolt & gear anchor. 5.11/A0 The aid bit is very short.

    P-6 Traverse out right and climb up past bolts and gear to a 2 bolt hanging belay at the brink of the headwall. Excellent rock and excellent exposure! 5.11+ This pitch has gone free but still needs a proper redpoint.

    P-7 Traverse right and climb a seam up onto the easier face that leads into the upper portion of "Ship Of Fools". Belay on large tree ledge. 5.9+?

    P-8 Climb the easy slab to the large right facing corner feature at the overlook. 5.7


    Location 

    Starts in a double right facing corner at the far left of the Headwall area.


    Protection 

    Standard rack up to #4 camelot. Small stoppers are very useful on the first pitch.



    Photos of Bloody Bolts and Brown Trousers Slideshow Add Photo
    The route (roughly).
    BETA PHOTO: The route (roughly).
    Bruce on the pitch 6 traverse.
    Bruce on the pitch 6 traverse.
    Jason low on Pitch 1.
    Jason low on Pitch 1.
    P-1  Cool rock on the face above the corners.
    P-1 Cool rock on the face above the corners.
    Comments on Bloody Bolts and Brown Trousers Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Scott Gilliam
    From: Raleigh, NC
    Dec 22, 2009

    Any hope this will go free, Nathan?

    By nbrown
    From: western NC
    Dec 23, 2009

    Not sure Scott. The aid bit is very short and steep but slightly crumbly. The next pitch was freed by Bruce (yoyo), so I went back and removed the A-0 rating.