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A motley of cruxes pepper this classic route, but it's mainly defined by its sustained, deviously circuitous character. You get everything - a tricky overhanging deadpoint (or trickier static), a thin and technical crux, a sustained finish, and a great view at the top.
For such a large crag, smith is heavy on great 12's, 13's and 14's, and relatively short on world class bolted elevens. Of the (two or three) handfuls that qualify, this is absolutely one of the best.
On the "other" side of cocaine gully, perhaps 75 yards uphill from Vomit Launch. Look for an ugly black streaked wall and bolted crack; left of this wall, you'll find a well chalked, overhanging route: Crack Babies. Bloodshot is a just downhill (with a route in between), and starts on a solid 5.easyish ramp angling left.
roughly ten bolts
|By Toby B|
Oct 24, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a
Super fun. Well bolted when it needs to be, little spacey when the climbing eases to keep things interesting, plenty of rest stances to get your shit together between cruxes.
In my opinion the real crux of the route comes at the very top getting to and moving off of a great sidepull. The falls from here are a little intimidating since the route has kind of a little ramp below you, but I've taken some whips here and they were all a-ok.
|By Max Tepfer|
From: Bend, OR
Jun 13, 2012
+1 that this route is super good! Get on it!