|Type:||Trad, Sport, 80'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Karsten on Jan 31, 2006|
|Comments on Bloodline||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By mark d
Mar 11, 2006
|one of the best routes around portland. a must do for the grade. very aesthetic climb with a roof at the end.|
By Bob Graham
Nov 6, 2006
great route, fun roof
Nice job Mark I never saw this pic, right on!
By Eric Schnepel
Nov 5, 2010
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
|Seriously a sweet line. The physically hardest moves come in the early boulder problem to the first bolt. A technical and unique midsection leading into a short finger crack takes you to a large roof. Traverse the roof from right to left on jugs then crank over the lip and reach for a triangular mono. The crux for me was pulling over the roof to the triangular pocket. The move is not terribly hard once it's unlocked. It's just insecure and slightly awkward. This route was somewhat beta intensive and sequential for me.|
By Alex Shainman
From: the best place right now!
Jun 24, 2013
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
|The bees are back in town.|
From: Portland, OR
Jul 3, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Everyone can tackle the first crux differently, so open your mind and trust your feet ;) The line becomes much less tiring once you realize that the middle 25 feet of the route is fun, off-vertical slab climbing.
I know it's been said before, but cranking off your heel and (lightly) pulling the mono is one of the coolest parts of the climb, so I don't recommend scooting left at the top, you'd just be cutting yourself short.
BTW - Nobody can get on this (summer 2013) until someone evicts the winged tenants. Not it!