Bloodline 5.12a
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12b [details] |
| FA: | |
| Season: | When Dry |
| Submitted By: | Karsten on Jan 31, 2006 |
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mark d climbing bloodline on gear. photo by kevin ...
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Description This striking and powerful line is one the best on the Bat wall. Containing power, balance, and finesse this route is a masterpiece. The opening moves are the hardest but upper moves still pack a punch. Begin up a very steep start below the remenants of a massive old beehive. This hive was removed long ago to reveal several very nice sharp incuts. (Route is also known a B-line or Beeline due to this) Continue up through a series of changing corners up to a huge roof. Traverse the roof and pull the lip on the left side. There are nice chain anchors just above the roof on a ledge.
The route is well bolted and was solely a sport climb up until a few years ago when several locals did the Retro-trad ascent. No bolts were removed but the entire route was done on gear. A trad ascent of the route is a spicy endeavor and should probably be rehearsed on TR or on bolts first.
Be careful with yourself and the rope at the base as this area is known for having poison ivy and tons of stinging nettles.
Protection Quickdraws and a few long slings for the anchor
or
Cams to #3, standard and offset nuts
Fun roof
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BETA PHOTO: My exact Beta for Bloodline. DO LOOK AT THIS IF YO...
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By mark d
Mar 11, 2006
| one of the best routes around portland. a must do for the grade. very aesthetic climb with a roof at the end. |
By Bob Graham
Nov 6, 2006
| great route, fun roof
Nice job Mark I never saw this pic, right on! |
By Eric Schnepel
From: Portland
Nov 5, 2010
rating: 5.12b
| Seriously a sweet line. Has the largest variety of movement of anything I have ever climbed. The physically hardest moves come in the early boulder problem to the first bolt. A technical and unique midsection leading into a short finger crack takes you to a large roof. Traverse the roof from right to left on jugs then crank over the lip and reach for a triangular mono. The crux for me was pulling over the roof to the triangular pocket. The move is not terribly hard once it's unlocked. It's just insecure and slightly awkward. This route was somewhat beta intensive and sequential for me. |
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