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Middle Earth
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Flake Called Lee T,TR 
Bloodguard T,TR 
Butterfingers T,TR 
Cave Route, The T 
For Short People Only T,TR 
Go Ballistic T,TR 
I Am a Cam TR 
In Your Head T 
Rhythm Roof TR 
Seven Wishes T,TR 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a R

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 37'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
Page Views: 746
Submitted By: Victor K on Sep 25, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: Bloodguard

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  • Description 

    Start at the center of a blank face, move up to a quartz vein then move left to a broken crack system. Hand traverse back right at the ledge, then move up through a fun series of small roofs.


    This is the leftmost area of Middle Earth. Head right before concrete steps adjacent to the Pillar, then scramble up through a small boulder field to the base of the climb.


    Top rope-able. The run out section is in the first 15' of the route.

    Comments on Bloodguard Add Comment
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    By Darren Smith
    Apr 20, 2013

    There is a very tricky but bomber horizontal BD #4 (purple) stopper placement about 12ft up that makes this a much safer lead.