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 ADVANCED
Middle Earth
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Flake Called Lee T,TR 
Bloodguard T,TR 
Butterfingers T,TR 
Cave Route, The T 
For Short People Only T,TR 
Go Ballistic T,TR 
I Am a Cam TR 
In Your Head T 
Rhythm Roof TR 
Seven Wishes T,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Bloodguard 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 37'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 775
Submitted By: Victor K on Sep 25, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: Bloodguard

  • Seasonal Bird Nesting Closure MORE INFO >>>
  • Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Start at the center of a blank face, move up to a quartz vein then move left to a broken crack system. Hand traverse back right at the ledge, then move up through a fun series of small roofs.

    Location 

    This is the leftmost area of Middle Earth. Head right before concrete steps adjacent to the Pillar, then scramble up through a small boulder field to the base of the climb.

    Protection 

    Top rope-able. The run out section is in the first 15' of the route.


    Comments on Bloodguard Add Comment
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    By Darren Smith
    Apr 20, 2013

    There is a very tricky but bomber horizontal BD #4 (purple) stopper placement about 12ft up that makes this a much safer lead.
    By Phil Keffer
    Dec 5, 2014
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    The route in the beta photo and description is a variation from the original route. The original route goes straight up the face and just "feels" right. The zig zag variation can be fun, but is dangerous on lead do to the landing area. The arete is off in both variations.

    Once you figure out the first few face moves, you can reach up to the horizontal crack and find a great first piece placement of a .3 BD cam. Though a little high, this horizontal crack placement will have you feeling completely secure. I would just skip the BD #4 stopper suggestion if you are going straight up the face.

    Have Fun!