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Bloodguard 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: FA (as "Non-Dairy Creamer" III 5.8 A3): Chris Ballinger, Jim Lynch, & Frank Sanders - 10/12/1977
FFA: Skinner, Wald, Cowan, & Piana - 7/19/1984
Page Views: 3,021
Submitted By: Joe Collins on Sep 2, 2002

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Kevin Cooper on a glorious TR of Bloodguard, and N...

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Description 

This may very well be one of the best hard finger cracks in North America. Rated anywhere between 11c to 12a in the various guidebooks I've seen, I'll post it as 11+. Even then, it feels like somewhat of a testpiece at hard-5.11.

Begin just to the left of the starts to Jerry's Kids and Avalon (just left of the pentagonal roof at mid-height in the picture below) . Scramble up to the finger crack which becomes increasingly difficult with height. A long rope stretcher pitch with the last 15 foot crux section consisting of desperate tips jamming and/or offset liebacking.

Protection 

Lots and lots of small to medium stoppers and small cams


Photos of Bloodguard Slideshow Add Photo
Taken June, 2000
BETA PHOTO: Taken June, 2000
Cooper and Dubois recovering their rope from a poison ivy patch below Bloodguard.
Cooper and Dubois recovering their rope from a poi...
The bottom portion of Bloodguard.  The best finger crack ever!  Spank the Monkey is the route just to the Left.
The bottom portion of Bloodguard. The best finger...

Comments on Bloodguard Add Comment
Show which comments
By jason seaver
From: Estes Park, CO
Aug 29, 2006

I agree with Joe, this is one of the best fingercracks anywhere. Long and immaculate with the crux coming in the last 20 feet.
By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
May 23, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

One of the best pitches on the Tower. Incredible the entire 160 feet. The last 20 feet are desperate!