Begin the same as the Honeymoon. Instead of moving up into the crack, traverse left on decent foot holds. Move up and left to a overlap. Follow this to a small bulge with a pin for protection. After the pin move up and right to the Honeymoon anchors. The gear on this route is spaced and marginal in a few places.
Note: this route used to end at a large pine tree, which is laying in the gully to the left dead.
Start the same as the Honeymoon. It is the other lichen-free line on this section. Look for the overlap when hiking down the trail. Rappel the Honeymoon anchors with two ropes.
Single rack and Tri-cams for those flaring holes.
|By Coz Teplitz|
From: Watertown, MA
Nov 11, 2010
Bummed to hear that tree died. It wasn't too long ago that I was rapping off the thing...
I actually think this is a quality route - fun face climbing at a moderate and consistent grade up what I remember as a crack-like feature. Worth some time if you're in the area. I have no idea if the new finish detracts from the quality of the route.
Dec 25, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Climbed this route last spring. Really a great route, but as far as I could tell there are few great anchoring options.
Even in terms of gear anchors, there are a few horizontals but a lot of them are pretty flaring.
The pitch features some great thought provoking moves, however. I feel as though this might be a great climb to warrant some rap anchors. I ended up having the second bring a rap line and slinging a tree a few hundred feet to the right. The traverse over to the tree had several fifth class moves and was lichen covered, so be extremely careful when getting down from this route.
The pitch is super fun though. Make sure to bring a nut tool when you lead to scrape the lichens off your footholds on the upper section!
|By Mike Holley|
From: Boone, NC
Apr 8, 2012
A fantastic Route that Obviously does not get that much traffic (a lot of lichen on this puppy)!! The beginning crack takes great pro but once you trend left and begin up the small, lichen cover that is the rest of the pitch gear gets pretty sparse due to the flaring nature of the crack, so if you find a good placement take it! Climbing is easy and straightforward but the gear options make for a exciting climb! An excellent warm up and a great climb when everything else is taken!