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Bears in Heat T 
Blood, Sweat, and Smears T 
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Little Wing T 
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Norseman, The S 
Old Warriors Never Die S 
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Sky Fishermen (free variation of Grunge Book) T,S 
South East Corner T 
Stone Rodeo S 
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Winter Delight T,S 
Young Warriors T 

Blood, Sweat, and Smears 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 170'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Jeff Thomas and Robert McGown, 1977
Page Views: 514
Submitted By: peachy spohn on Jul 24, 2013

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All faces of Beacon Rock except the route “Stone Soup” are closed. Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Blood, Sweat, and Smears follows a dihedral with an obvious, small triangular roof. The belay stance for the pitch is down and left from the young tree that is growing near Flying Circus.

Commence up left from the belay, get some tricky gear in, pull up onto the small square ledge, and get your smear on for the next 160 feet. The crux comes about 30-40 feet up, getting up a smooth section of the dihedral and through a small roof. Up higher, you'll have to navigate around a small sapling before hitting a perfect layback splitter to the Big Ledge.

Once on the Big Ledge finish up Dod's Jam or Dastardly Crack.

Blood, Sweat, and Smears has great moves, amazing position, but sadly is quite dirty. If more people climb it and clean it up there is no doubt that it would be a Portland Area CLASSIC, but until it and its approach pitch get cleaner I think its a bit committing.


Just to the right of the Third Tunnel. To approach Blood, Sweat, and Smears we climbed Reasonable Richard (very mossy and lichen covered, questionable pro, but would be very fun if cleaned).
Blood, Sweat, and Smears has the obvious small triangle roof in its dihedral.


Double set of nuts, including extra small stoppers (#3 - #5 BD). Set of cams from #1 - #6 Metolius. Garden Gloves.

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By ahparker
Oct 9, 2015

Very appropriate name for this route, I was certainly doing all three. If you could work "calf pump" into the name somewhere it'd be spot on. I found Matt's description accurate. Lots of lichen but the climbing is actually fantastic. I ran out of appropriate sized gear in the middle section before the hands section at the top so it felt a little more strenuous/spicy than it should have. A few extra finger sized pieces like .3-.5 BD should do the trick. In addition to the rack suggestion, I was also able to drop in some #2 and #3 BD's, especially toward the top. 3's are probably not super necessary but I was happy to have one. Keep in mind it's a longish pitch at about 165 feet with smallish tinkery gear to fingers to hands at the top. If this gets cleaned up I'd agree it will be a total classic.

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