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Blood Ruby S 
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Blood Ruby 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Tristan Higbee, Christian Burrell
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,032
Submitted By: Tristan Higbee on Jul 14, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Clark, throwing for relief.

Description 

Wow! What a climb! It starts off easy enough for several moves. Then you have to make a deadpoint (technical crux) with your left hand from good jugs and crimpers to a tiny little crimp. But it doesn't let up much after that. Make some more moves on crimpers to a diagonal slot/pocket (clip the 4th bolt from there), do another couple moves with bad feet and then lunge for the big (but not quite as big as you'd like) jug under the chains. Feel around for some big jugs up higher and clip the chains.

The right arete is off limits. The easiest way is to the left, anyway...

Location 

The right-most of the two routes on the east side of Treasure Island.

Protection 

5 bolts to chains.


Photos of Blood Ruby Slideshow Add Photo
Caleb clipping into the chains on bloody ruby
Caleb clipping into the chains on bloody ruby
Clark, red-pointing BR.
Clark, red-pointing BR.
Jonny Wilson wishing he had night vision on Blood ...
Jonny Wilson wishing he had night vision on Blood ...
Canyon at the fourth bolt on bloody ruby
Canyon at the fourth bolt on bloody ruby

Comments on Blood Ruby Add Comment
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By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
Jul 14, 2008

I think this is one of the better routes I've established. Continuously fun and difficult climbing. The name comes from some early redpoint attempts. I cut my fingers on some of the sharp holds but kept on climbing, getting blood on most of the holds. Don't worry, the blood is mostly gone now...
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Jul 14, 2008

Great thin crux! I agree that if it were longer it would warrent another star, but it is worth the short hike. A good trail is in the planning stage but the landing is plush! If you like small holds this is a good route to get on.
By Darren Knezek
Jul 16, 2008
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Great route guys! One of the better .11d's in Rock Canyon!
By Justin Raymond
From: Orem, Utah
Jul 21, 2008
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Loved the route! It had some good reaches in it(at least the way i did it). Didn't see any blood on the holds. That was a good thing... Must do route!


BTW.....
I helped clean out the top holds. One the size of a soccer ball came loose on me. I knocked it off along with all the dirt.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Aug 23, 2008

Thanks for pulling off that loose block at the top. We did the route again today and clipping the chain is so mellow now. That's the problem these days with putting in new lines. Everyone wants to complain that a route isn't clean enough but no one is willing to do some brushing themselves. So kudos to you dude!
By Clay Allred
From: Moab UT
Aug 26, 2008

Awesome route. I was really stoked on it with all the hype and I must say I wasn't disappointed. By the time I got around to my redpoint it was dark so I sent it via the Petzl headlamp which I think made it 12a :) Also, I pulled off a good hold at the bottom but don't worry, it's still only 10 something below the crux.
By Tanner Wise
Jun 8, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

I loved this climb! I was just looking at it thinking how cool it would be, so I decided to try it and what a gem. so happy I tried it and got the onsight! great climb on awesome crimps.
By BJB
From: Austin, TX
Jun 16, 2011

This was a ton of fun. The deadpoint was something I had never really done outside of the gym before and it felt great when I got it. Awesome route!
By Thomas Holmes
From: Utah
Apr 10, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

I have nothing but good things to say about this route, well worth the approach.
By Canyon Copa
Jun 2, 2012

Best 11d in the canyon. Really solid moves that are definitely easier with a longer reach. Clipping the fourth bolt off of two fingers on a tiny crimp was quite the mental battle. Clipping the fifth bolt was not much easier because of the footwork. I had high expectations and it didn't disappoint.