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Juniper Wall
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Blood on the Rocks 
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Blood on the Rocks 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ralph Mitchell, Bill Boyle
Page Views: 579
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Oct 23, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: Juniper Wall
3. Blood on the Rocks 5.10b
4. [[106056211...

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb up a broken series of flakes, blocks, and cracks on sharp jugs, sidepulls, and raspy handjams. Perhaps the route name comes from the jams, in which I left a little bit of skin.

The psychological crux is definitely between the last bolt and the chains when you must venture right, away from the jugs and from the cracks onto the face, with a potentially damaging fall beneath you. It may be the technical crux as well, although my partner thought a bit between the third and fourth bolts was harder (but I donít think he used any jams).


Location 

Fourth line of bolts from the right on Juniper Wall (third line if you are counting only the bottom bolts).


Protection 

4 bolts, chain anchors



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By Tosh Peters
From: Park City, UT
Jun 18, 2008

definitly a fun climb and contrary to the guidebook at this point it doesnt have any more loose rock than the rest of af. i didnt venture right but was able to clip the chains with a far stretch off a fingerlock in the crack, a taller person than 5'6" would'nt have any trouble.

By Christian Weaver
Oct 12, 2009

Vertical Country Blood on the Rocks