Blood On the Cracks
||Trad, 1 pitch, 112'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA: ||Paul W. 12/23/2005 Bryan Scmitz 5/19/2006|
|Season: ||Steep - year round w/ daily weather cooperation|
|Page Views: ||91|
|Submitted By: ||PDub-Trad on Aug 6, 2012|
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Climber's right of Lost Art in a dihedral with widening crack. The crux is in the final 15 meters getting progressively stiffer till a distinctive top-out jug. The route starts with Lost Arts start but veers right after 10 feet. Ledges lead to the start of the dihedral. Low angle climbing lends to vert, then to steep, with holds outside of the crack helping thru cruxy sections. Unlike neighboring classics LA and UOAP, the bulk of the route is 5.9+ climbing with a distinctive .10c crux, whereas LA and UOAP will challenge thru a bulk of the route.
Climber's left of Radical Sabbatical and Thaddallic.
No bolts at Moolack.
#00 to 4.5
there is a minor tree at end of route, it can be a runner to the larger tree anchor typically utilized for Lost Art and Up on A Pedestal.