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 ADVANCED
Moolack
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Age Before Beauty T 
Blood On the Cracks T 
Cleaned For Her Pleasure T 
Compromising Positions T 
Eta Eva T 
Extreme Makeover T 
Fist Fight T 
Full Circle T 
Gold T 
Lost Art T 
Mr. Clean T 
page for page fixes to NWOR T 
Pledge Allegiance T 
Plumber's Crack T 
Radical Sabatical T 
Sendero De Sangre T 
Sidewinder T 
Up on A Pedestal T 
Zion Train T 

Blood On the Cracks 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 112'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Paul W. 12/23/2005 Bryan Scmitz 5/19/2006
Season: Steep - year round w/ daily weather cooperation
Page Views: 86
Submitted By: PDub-Trad on Aug 6, 2012

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Description 

Climber's right of Lost Art in a dihedral with widening crack. The crux is in the final 15 meters getting progressively stiffer till a distinctive top-out jug. The route starts with Lost Arts start but veers right after 10 feet. Ledges lead to the start of the dihedral. Low angle climbing lends to vert, then to steep, with holds outside of the crack helping thru cruxy sections. Unlike neighboring classics LA and UOAP, the bulk of the route is 5.9+ climbing with a distinctive .10c crux, whereas LA and UOAP will challenge thru a bulk of the route.


Location 

Climber's left of Radical Sabbatical and Thaddallic.


Protection 

No bolts at Moolack.
#00 to 4.5
there is a minor tree at end of route, it can be a runner to the larger tree anchor typically utilized for Lost Art and Up on A Pedestal.



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