|The North Walls
This climb ascends the exposed arete to right of High Plains Drifter. Excellent, varied crack and face climbing. Some of the best positions on the Chief.
Pitch 1. 5,12c. Overhanging tips layback. Difficult moves around lip (crux) lead to easier hand crack which peters out to tricky face climbing exit.
Pitch 2. 5.12a. Beautiful exposed arete climbing with amazing crimps and multiple cruxes. Bolted but a 00 tcu and yellow alien were used to protect the exit. Down climb ledge to belay below pitch 2 of High Plains Drifter.
Pitch 3. 5.11c. Climb crux pitch of the Drifter.
Approach as for High Plains Drifter at vetical gulley that leads to the Drifter, continue 10 meters along main ledge and pull into alcove at the base of pitch one.
One set of cams to gold bd. extra tiny cams, green c3 seemed critical to protecting crux. Nuts.
|By Evan Stevens|
Jul 11, 2011
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b PG13
A cool line in a spectacular position. We approached via angel's crest, but I would recommend subsequent parties to rap in from the top with a wire brush and do some pre-cleaning. This route is good, but rarely traveled so chances are you will find it dirty and flakey. After we did a pass or two it improved a little bit. The first pitch is not too hard for the grade, with good rests. The second pitch has some runouts and the need for 2 or 3 pieces of gear...maybe it should just be fully bolted? Finishing on the last pitch of the drifter is a great way to end as well.