Very physical route that's burly from bottom to top and has lots of good footwork. Overhangs about 30 degrees. The moves at the bottom of the crack put the "P" in Power layback.
Just right of the cleaver-like arete two routes share a start. NO WAR branches left to the arete, Blood Meridian heads for the left-leaning crack.
Bolts and chains with biners.
Feb 26, 2009
A very tough FA for me. I don't know how many tries I put in...but it was alot. My fat fingers just don't work well with the crux holds. I was about to give up on the route when Monica Wang asked me if she could give it a go. She had taken a couple of TR runs, but wanted to lead it. I said "sure...do it". And she came within a whisker of sending. That energized me enough to give it one more go...and I got it. This route seems WAY harder than Milanoma to me.
If you are a fan of Cormac McCarthy, you may get a grin out of the juxtaposition of this route and "No War".
Feb 26, 2009
I knew it, ...you HAD to be a fan of Cormac McCarthy...
Congrats John :-)
May 8, 2010
Although rarely done, this route is very good. Dan Lucas says it's the best route at the beach.
Oct 8, 2010
And kNad knows.
|By Dominic Weinstock|
Dec 21, 2013
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Damn good route....damn good.....one beautiful high tension move after the other.