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The Beach
Routes Sorted
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Blood Meridian S 
Eclipse S 
For The Lova Mike S 
Hang Eleven S 
Holeo An' Glassy Ass S 
Milanoma S 
No War S 
Pipeline S 
Solar Power S 

Blood Meridian 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: JBaker, Todd McGregor (Apr, 2003)
Page Views: 1,928
Submitted By: jbak on Mar 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Finishing the first crux of Blood. If a climb tha...


Very physical route that's burly from bottom to top and has lots of good footwork. Overhangs about 30 degrees. The moves at the bottom of the crack put the "P" in Power layback.


Just right of the cleaver-like arete two routes share a start. NO WAR branches left to the arete, Blood Meridian heads for the left-leaning crack.


Bolts and chains with biners.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 9, 2015
By Mitchell Beiser 1
From: Tucson, Arizona
Jan 10, 2016

Tried out this route today and loved it. Unfortunately on my third attempt, I mistakenly yanked off one of the good holds just after the first crux. It's the right hand afer the left hand used to end the underling move (in jbaks picture) it was previously epoxied on. Routr still goes, just a smidge harder without much room for both hands. If anyone wants to hop out there with me, I'd gladly put it back up, I just need a recommendation for what epoxy type is best and a belayer to get me there. The hold was placed on the other glued jug at eye level of the beginning of the route.
By jbak
Jan 10, 2016

Mitchell, thanks for the report. My memory of the route is a little fuzzy. Was the ripped hold a clip hold ?
By Mitchell Beiser 1
From: Tucson, Arizona
Jan 11, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: Previously glued on hold
Previously glued on hold

jbak, yes and no. The left hand is a great hold that is used to clip with yet... this could have been used to clip from if so desired. The left and right hands were very near one another and both could have been used to clip from. This hold is not crucial for clipping just helpful to get collect yourself after that first crux.
By jbak
Jan 11, 2016

Mitchell.....thanks........just leave the hold where you indicated in previous post. I'll check it out. If you want to come along, PM me.
By jbak
Feb 26, 2009

A very tough FA for me. I don't know how many tries I put in...but it was alot. My fat fingers just don't work well with the crux holds. I was about to give up on the route when Monica Wang asked me if she could give it a go. She had taken a couple of TR runs, but wanted to lead it. I said " it". And she came within a whisker of sending. That energized me enough to give it one more go...and I got it. This route seems WAY harder than Milanoma to me.

If you are a fan of Cormac McCarthy, you may get a grin out of the juxtaposition of this route and "No War".
By Aleix
Feb 26, 2009

I knew it, HAD to be a fan of Cormac McCarthy...
Congrats John :-)
By JoeS
May 8, 2010

Although rarely done, this route is very good. Dan Lucas says it's the best route at the beach.
By jbak
Oct 8, 2010

And kNad knows.
By Dominic Weinstock
Dec 21, 2013
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b

Damn good route....damn beautiful high tension move after the other.
By Luke Bertelsen
Mar 6, 2015
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Pretty darn good route. I can't believe I made it out to The Beach probably 20 times before ever getting on this one. IMO this climb is the same difficulty as Milanoma only there is not a single small hold on the entire climb.
By jbak
Mar 6, 2015

Interesting comments Luke. If I hadn't cursed this route with a 12+ rating it would probably be more popular. IMO it's as good or better than Milanoma or Solar, but never gets done. And I won't argue with Dan Lucas when he says it's the best route there.

I sent both this route and Milanoma back in the 02-03 winter season when I was in pretty good shape. Milanoma seemed almost easy, Blood felt 1.5 to 2 letter grades harder. TO ME. One played to my strengths (few though they are) and the other exposed my many weaknesses.
By Luke Bertelsen
Mar 9, 2015
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

John, it's funny you mentioned one route being your style and the other not as much. I guess I feel pretty much the opposite about the two routes in terms of which suits me more. Both are fantastic. We've been hitting this place pretty hard this season. We finally got smart and learned not to even show up until it is in full shade. If you follow that rule the late afternoons/ early evenings are amazing out there.
By jbak
Mar 9, 2015

I've often thought that a solid winter day would be Shed in the AM and Beach in the PM.

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