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Crazy Horse Buttress
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Blood, Love and Steel S 
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Partners (left) aka Steve Gumaer and Co,.  S 
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Thai Who Loved Me, The S 

Blood, Love and Steel 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 387
Submitted By: Thailand Climbing on Mar 21, 2011

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The physical crux of the uber-classic Blood, Love ...

Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A 3 star spectacular mega classic! A balancey first section for 4 bolts leads to a thread and a rest. The next section comprises of a super thin crux. Shoot for the big jug, it's as positive as you're hoping it is. The lankier can make it in a single dynamic move. The more vertically challenged climbers will need to find a intermediate foot hold to get the reach. People have been known to claim there is a micro-nubbin for the foot but really it's a case of just picking a section of rock and imagining there is a foothold. A short traverse of pumpy climbing leads to the beginning of a chimney. Either get into the chimney via a direct line on tiny finger pockets or take a line of jugs on the outside of the chimney then traverse in at the first bolt. A brief bit of respite is provided by the chimney, make the most of the rests in between bolts as the last move is a mantle into the belay is easy, on huge holds but a little thin on the feet and will happily spit off any climber who has spent all their energy.

a 2nd pitch is also available, though fairly crappy climbing contrasts harshly against the amazing quality of the 1st pitch so most people choose to rap off the first anchor. For the adventurous who dont mind the old dirty and dusty hold, the climbing though mediocre will take you right to the top of the horse's head and some spectacular views and summit feeling that easily justifies the 2nd pitch.

Location 

Starts to the left of the 5.13 with insitu draws, just to the left of the ladder access rungs that lead to the Archway sector.

Protection 

First Pitch: 10 bolts, 1 thread
Second Pitch: 6 Bolts, 1 thread


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By coachian
Oct 15, 2013

Awesome climb! Try to get on it when it's not completely in the sun. Cool slabby movement lead to a fun little steep section. One of the best 11's on the main Crazy Horse Butress