Blood In The Water
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Climb left out of the notch onto the scooped red wall. As the wall steepens encounter the first crux on delicate holds as you approach and pass a small roof. Once above the roof there is a great ret out left on a hold shared with Big - T
, one could theoretically finish on the 3rd pitch of that route. From the rest head up and right on the steep wall with several long moves past the second crux finishing at the base of a shallow corner. Move back to the left onto the long and sustained but easier face up to the anchors above. Approach
: Find the Yucca Flower Towers
and go towards to NW for 30m to gain the prominent ridge top North of the Bush Shark Spire
. Rap bolts are somewhat clandestine. You will need to leave a cordalette to rap off trending climber's left to the next station with a good stance. The stance is hard to see until you're about 10m away.
Next, use a 70m rope doubled to rap in to the Bush Shark Notch, hanging some directional draws on the route as you rap in. Use a few small cams for the belayer to keep them secured into the notch for a descent belay stance.
17 bolts protect the climbing while a few small cams blue, yellow and orange TCUs set a nice belay stance for your belayer in the notch.