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Blood Donation Station
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.8 from 5
votes
Routes in (01) East Corridor Wall
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Blood Donation Station T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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High Stepping S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Stranded S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Twig but No Berries S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unconstrained S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Michael LaPlante |
| Page Views: | 868 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Alexander Nees on Oct 31, 2007 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
The cleanest crack at Mentmore, this offwidth is also a bit of burlfest. Starting out as just barely too small to chimney, it steadily narrows down, reaching fist-size at the very top. The fact that it's just off-vertical, plus the presence of helpful crimps and footholds, keeps it at the grade. This is probably one of the safest trad leads at Mentmore if you've got the gear for it, since the rock inside the crack is really quite good. A great climb if you like it wide!
Location
The obvious, clean, offwidth splitter in the east wall of the corridor. It's the only crack there, you can't miss it! (Between "High Stepping" and "Butter Toes")
Protection
Bring the big guys! The top is just barely narrow enough to take a #4 C4. Everything below that is going to need 5s and 6s. In a perfect world, maybe bring C4s: 1x 4, 2x 5-6. Or just walk a single big cam all the way to the top... it's mostly 5-sized. There are no fixed anchors. If you want to TR it, either build a gear anchor, or use the bolts on either side and a gear directional.
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