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Forgotten Wall, Control Tower & Up The Creek Wall
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Blood Book 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: EFR, JSt, Robert McLeod'07
New Route: Yes
Season: Late fall, early spring, winter
Page Views: 2,684
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Dec 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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Erica Bigio cruising the crux. On a warm day this...

Description 

One of the best gear climbs in the grade. Good pro all the way to the anchors. Looks harder than it is.

Location 

Right side of the wall. It is an obvious right facing dihedral in an alcove that starts 20 feet above the trail at the base of the cliff. It looks harder than it is.

Protection 

Standard rack with small cams up to 3 Camalot and two each of purple green and red. Chains at the top for lowering when done.


Photos of Blood Book Slideshow Add Photo
Paola getting to the business.
Paola getting to the business.
Capt. Burke leading Blood Book in fine style. Jan 09.
Capt. Burke leading Blood Book in fine style. Jan ...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 19, 2010
By "Canada" Eric Ruljancich
From: Tucson, AZ / Vancouver, BC
Jan 21, 2008

This is a excellent climb. Great gear, fun moves. Well worth the hike if you were just to do this route.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
May 12, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Nice to be able and spice up the day placing a bit of pro. Added bonus is the no hands rest and bolted anchors found up top. The route can easily be protected with 2" and less. Plenty of placements to choose from.
By Chris Prewitt
Dec 26, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

A rarity for Mount Lemmon: a true dihedral crack climb. Terrific stances to make placing pro a breeze. Very fun climbing.
By Boodge Nomchompski
Dec 31, 2008
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Amazing route! The gear, stances and climbing are all great. When I started leading trad 2 months ago, I wanted to lead an all gear 5.10 on Mt Lemmon before the end of the year...so this was my first 5.10 trad lead - I finished it at 4:00 pm on Dec 31st. Nothing like waiting till the last minute, right?
By Brent Silvester
Jan 17, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

One Pitch Wonder!!! Definatly worth the hike for this route. I would say there are too many no hands rests to be a .10. A solid 5.9 lead. Eveytime I climb it, I find differents ways to protect it. Lovely route.
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 18, 2009
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

nah, it's not 5.9. this is a solid lemmon 10a. best corner on the mountain, imho.
By Dan Cohen
Jan 20, 2009

I think the crux move is no harder than 5.9. Great climb.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 22, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is a great climb ... it's my favorite route at the Forgotten Wall.
By scottcundy
From: tucson, az
Jan 31, 2009

Phenomenal gear, sweet climbing. Really a classic in my opinion. I would give it a 10a rating.
By Todd Savoy
From: Flagstaff
Apr 5, 2009

Ive only been climbing on Lemmon for about 6 months but this is by far the most aesthetic route I've done. I love that the moves vary so much...from jams to crimps.
By Catherine Conner
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jan 19, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Great, Great!!! I followed this trad route and thought it was straight 5.10 in the center portion... It looks intimidating from the ground. I was able to do a lot of cool stemming. Can't wait to take a crack at leading it... David Sampson lead this one really well and got in good gear-some small stuff at the crux is what I remember. Fun moves.