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 ADVANCED
Magic Bus
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blonde Dwarf T,TR 
Electric Koolaid S,TR 
Ken Queasy T,S 
Neon Sunset T,S 
Queasy Sunrise S 
Technicolor Sunrise T,S 
Zipperhead T 

Blonde Dwarf 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: N. Nordblom, P VanBetten, '88. bolts added in '93
Season: Sunny and warm in cooler weather
Page Views: 1,397
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 22, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (74)
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BETA PHOTO: Magic Bus

Description 

This route climbs the obvious crack starting near the left hand edge of the Magic Bus wall. The gear at the bottom might be a little tricky to place, but seemed OK to me. Like it's neighbor, there is nothing really wrong with the route, but it's broken nature (not a singular line) makes it not quite as good as others on the cliff, having rock of less quality and being a little shorter.Climb up the crack up and right to the face, then up and left on the face past two bolts to a fixed rap anchor.


Protection 

A set or draws and a light rack, or a TR.



Photos of Blonde Dwarf Slideshow Add Photo
Just starting up the crack...
Just starting up the crack...
Elaine eyeing the crux.
Elaine eyeing the crux.
Liz looks up at the second half of blonde dwarf
Liz looks up at the second half of blonde dwarf
Chris at the end of the crack system of Blonde Dwarf.
Chris at the end of the crack system of Blonde Dwa...
Lee Hansche (me) leading this fun "crack climb" that could be done without the crack... but who it their right mind would avoid a crack...
Lee Hansche (me) leading this fun "crack climb" th...
Seconding the route on a great late December 2008 day.
Seconding the route on a great late December 2008 ...
getting to the bolts and the crux... i found the easy crack to be the best part of the climb...
getting to the bolts and the crux... i found the e...
Rose on the OS of Blonde Drawf.
Rose on the OS of Blonde Drawf.
Comments on Blonde Dwarf Add Comment
Show which comments
By L. Hamilton
Feb 25, 2004
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Felt easier than the 5.9 to its left. The protection (a few nuts, plus the bolts) seemed fine. A nice climb, but not 5.10 s.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Feb 26, 2004

For the record, I think all of the grades in book for the area are 'easy.' For that double-digit end of the scale, perhaps 3 letter grades easier than rated. Single-digit-difficulty routes seem to be over-graded by an average of almost full number. There are of course exceptions and even sandbags, but I am speaking generally.

I don't think it is very S either. I give it PG13 an for tricky gear at the bottom because the gear at the bottom might be a little tricky to place for a newbie.

By 10b4me
Mar 6, 2004

I agree, it is more of a 5.8+ climb. Still, I'll take any of the climbs on the Magic Bus wall.

By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 19, 2007

I think you guys are right for the most part - seemed pretty easy. But the crux up high was pretty delicate. Maybe a one move wonder? Still, I found the climb to be thoroughly enjoyable.

By Lluis Penalver-Aguila
Apr 13, 2009

Follow the right leaning crack until it peters out in the dish. Up the dish and to the left to clip two bolts and end at the anchors to the left. The crux is in the dish with a high step on low handholds (shorter climber) with a reach to a very positive hold above. Strenuous at the crack only.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 4, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

On 3/3/10, the LVCLC with help from the ASCA replaced two pro bolts and the anchor bolts shared with Electric Koolaid with 1/2" x 2.75" SS 5-piece bolts. The anchors are now equipped with mussy hooks.

By Josh Cameron
Jan 12, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The crack was more like face climbing and using the crack for pro with an occasioanl finger jam, though my fingers may be too big to use the crack. I felt the face climbing at the top was harder than "Electric Koolaid."

By Mark Wright
From: Minneapolis, MN
May 2, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The crack was easy to protect with small cams and nuts, and the face at the top is well bolted. So it may have been PG at one time, but now it seems pretty safe to me... and I'm a conservative old guy...:-)