Blodgett Canyon sits in the middle of the Bitterroot Mountain Range and mainly consists of multi-pitch spires and one smaller cliff close to the parking lot.
The south facing side of the canyon is littered with granite cliffs and spires. If you have not been here it's certainly time to go. There is camping right before the trail head as well as a bathroom right there in the parking lot. Most of the approaches to the spires can be a bit grueling, especially the ones further down the canyon.
Another thing to be noted, blodgett rock at times can be the ever puckering big loose block, super scaly, kitty litter type. The important thing to remember is your climbing in Montana, and you’re going to run into the choss sooner than later. The climbing is mostly lay-backing in dihedrals but expect to also see face climbing, runnel mc dunnels, slabs, and rare jam cracks. I think that about does it for the description. If you can top this by all means do so, I just couldn’t bare to see one of Montana’s better areas absent on Mountain Project.
Approach: If you are gathering most of your information out of the falcon guide book do not pay much attention to the worthless approach descriptions. When you are somewhat in line with your climb, scout a line up the talus, find a log crossing, shed a layer, and convince your partner to carry the rope. If this is your first climb in the canyon count on an all day event and start early.
Descent: The decents in Blodgett can be tricky so leave ample time for getting down and know whether you need 2 ropes for the rap.
Head towards Hamilton on Highway 93 and take Blodgett Canyon Road. Access to the climbing routes begin at the Blodgett Creek Trailhead. In Hamilton, Mt, drive west on Main Street (out of the downtown area) until you reach the bridge over the Bitterroot River. Just past (west) the bridge, turn right (north) onto Ricketts Road and drive for .5 mile. At the intersection, turn left (west) onto Blodgett Camp Road. Veer right at the intersection with FS 735 in about 2.5 miles.Continue for about 1.5 miles to the combined Blodgett Creek Campground and TH.
On your left is parking for a couple of dozen vehicles and an outhouse. Here is the trailhead for Blodgett Canyon.
P1: Entrance Exam pitch. Begin from a grassy ledge, aiming for a lone medium/small tree about 160' up the wall. Apparently there are 3-4 bolts on this pitch but we never saw them (we might have been too far right) and were just fine. This pitch has the most loose rock on the whole climb. 5.9+, belay off tree.P2: 25' (if that) pitch to good sized ledge with 2 bolts for belay. 5.5 note: if you try to link the first 2 pitches the rope drag gets pretty heinous. P3: Slab pitch. 90' up a moderately ...[more]Browse More Classics in MT