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North Canyon Wall
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Adaptation 
Avoid, The 
Blockhead 
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Why Be Normal 

Blockhead 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 953
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Jun 25, 2002
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Photo taken from the drainage

Description 

Blockhead is on the face just to the right of Paperboy Centerfold (obvious dihedral). Follow bolt line up through face holds and incipient cracks, then pull over a small roof (crux). Follow face holds to a two bolt anchor at the top. This is one of the better face climbing routes at Falling Rock.


Protection 

Draws for bolts. Also very easy to toprope.



Comments on Blockhead Add Comment
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By Brad Boner
May 17, 2003

I like this route... the clipping stances are a little funky, but once you dial in everything it's a good, pumpy workout...

By LTomer
From: Wyoming
Sep 6, 2006

If you think this route was fun, walk along the top or bottom of the cliffs to the west and look for a large overhang (roof). It is a great climb, also a work out.

By Joshua Dreher
From: Bremerton, WA
Sep 13, 2006

Good lead at 10c. Runout a hair but easier climbing in those sections.

By Caleb Hansen
From: Rapid City
Sep 27, 2006

to LTomer, would know what grade that overhang goes at, I noticed a couple bolts on the roof but only one set went completely up the wall, are the anchors easy to get too or must it be led first? any info would be much appreciated

By Cameron Luth
Oct 4, 2006

To caleb, The roof is about a 11d/12a i think, I dont think there are bolts going all the way up from directly underneath the roof into the face, but there are anchors above it, if you walk along the edge of the cliff from the parking walk until you see the huge boulder at the bottom that has a crack in the middle and there are 2 closed shunt anchors here on top of the wall, they are very easy to get to.

By Snake Ferguson
From: Rapid City, SD
Aug 31, 2010

Blind right side-pull before the third clip brings it all together.

By Wilson On The Drums
From: Woodbury, MN
Feb 23, 2013

for a little change of pace it would be possible to link paperboy into blockhead, get established about 30ft up on paperboy and then traverse right, right below the 3rd bolt of blockhead, clip it and finish for blockhead. the traverse can be protected by a purple c4 if one feels inclined. i aided the line today and haven't done it free but it would probably clock in around 8+/9-