Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Saddle Peak
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Block/Gully Var. S 
Christmas Chronicle S 
Last Dance S 
Richard's Rift T 
Route 1 - R.I.P Arete S 
Route 2 - The Roof Route S 
Route 3 S 
Route 4 S 
Route 4 1/2 T 
Route 5 S 
Route 6 S 
Route 7 T,S 
Route 8 T,S 
Route 9 S 
Xeno Dance S 

Block/Gully Var. 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 247
Submitted By: Maidy on Aug 25, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

The odd old bolted/mixed route that heads up the huge blocks and gully just right of the Roof Route. Share's the start of #3 (clip the left bolt at the roof) then gully-hop, traversing left while clipping the 2 bolts on top of the big blocks. Ends straight up a crack with a manzanita growing out of it. (Shown as the dotted line "var" on the beta map).

Pretty grungy with some loose rock in the gulleys. There are a couple of moves off the blocks some folks may find fun, but the topout around the bush is gritty and awkward. NOTE: Cutting manzaninta is illegal so please don't kill the bush to facilitate a mediocre climb.

For a more interesting finish... just keep traversing left to link up and top out on the #2 Roof Route. Watch your rope-end on the lower. Not sure if 60m makes it to the ground.

Location 

This is the bolted gully between the #2 "Roof Route" and the #3 Route.

Protection 

Draws. A couple of mid-size cams to protect the runout crack at the top.


Comments on Block/Gully Var. Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -