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The Millstone
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YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jim Howe, Tomi Howe 1989
Page Views: 544
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 3, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Blockbuster

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On the Northeast face is one steep, bolted line. Blockbuster climbs this line until the bolts end and then it can be protected with gear. A very insecure route with a mean pump and technical climbing as well. The major negative of this route is some considerably loose rock. The crux is after bolt 2, but the entire bolted section is tough, either reachy or technical, and the rock surface down low is polished glass. After the bolt, you are still looking at 5.10 climbing, and kind of pumpy still. The book called this one a 5.10c, but I am saying 5.10d/5.11a, this route is hard, really hard.


On the NE face, there is the left-most bolted line that climbs into a sort of a slot/dihedral, just left of some large roofs.


3 draws for the route, 2 more for the (new) chains, and not small gear for the crack. Medium to small, but nothing too small is needed. Runners are very helpful as there are roofs.

Photos of Blockbuster Slideshow Add Photo
Making that 3rd clip, in some sort of strange, behind the back fashion.
Making that 3rd clip, in some sort of strange, beh...
Making that 2nd clip.
Making that 2nd clip.
Liebacking through the start of the trad section.  Watch the polished glass feet.
Liebacking through the start of the trad section. ...
Blockbuster w/o lines
BETA PHOTO: Blockbuster w/o lines
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By grk10vq
Jul 14, 2013

a test of nerves, there are a lot of blocks on this route that may just bust off into your face.
as usual, i enjoyed it. fourty-six mountain project stars.