Block Top 5.9+ C2+
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 450 feet, Grade III |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ C2+ [details] |
| FA: | 10-12-85 by Bryan Ferguson, Bill Ellwood, Greg Doubek |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Bryan Ferguson on Apr 28, 2008 |
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Descending Block Top
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Description Steep crack climbing including free climbing and aid on big Friends stacked with wooden blocks (blocks were stashed at base). All likely would go free.
Location Find the prominent crack that splits the North face of Block Top Tower. Descend the route.
Protection Old style buttonhead bolts were placed on chimney pitch (pitch three) and belays, These should be replaced if they have not been already. Lots of big friends. We used home made friends (thanks to Greg) and big tri-cams stacked with blocks.
BETA PHOTO: Original Block Top Topo
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Climber on Block Top
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The old stacking blocks are still there at the bas...
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BETA PHOTO: Block Top summit photo from the Island in the Sky ...
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Looking down from top of pitch three, first attemp...
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Bill, Greg and Bryan on Block Top Summit
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Sorting gear in Moab after Block Top FA.
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By Bryan Ferguson
From: Denver, CO
Sep 8, 2011
| Patrick, do say more. We knew it would go free when we did the FA. Would like to know more about the FFA. |
By Patrick Kingsbury
Apr 26, 2012
| Pretty sure they established the analog crack with Crusher, though i could be wrong. |
By Bryan Ferguson
From: Denver, CO
Apr 27, 2012
| Meaning the crux is the first pitch? Just very curious as I led the wide pitch on aid until I could squeeze in. The moves out of aiders were wicked OW and sqeeze chimney that very nearly exceeded my limits - it was a climb or die (not really, but felt like it) sort of thing for me. |
By Patrick Kingsbury
Apr 28, 2012
| As in same crack, but opposite side of the tower. Completely different route. |
By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Apr 29, 2012
| Blocktop is split, north to south, by one crack. There are two routes, the original route takes the north side. Pete Whittaker, Tom Randall and I went up the south side (not the original route). There was some misunderstanding over this. I had heard this south side route had not been freed and might be very hard. This got the wideboyz all excited. Turns out it was established a decade ago or so, and goes free. The wideboyz reckoned maybe 5.10++. I jumared much of the way, partly to save time (brisk November day), partly because it was damn hard! think I got my original information all wrong, and it was the original route that was (is?) not free.
The north side, original route, I have not done and know nothing about. I have heard nothing from Stevie about climbing Blocktop. One thing's for sure, whichever side you pick, this makes for a hard-earned tower tick. |
By Bryan Ferguson
From: Denver, CO
May 1, 2012
| OK, south side, we thought that would be harder. Kudos to the Wideboyz and Crusher, et al on the project. |
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