Block and Tackle
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Unrelenting for its first 40', this packs quite a pump. Start w/ technical stemming, laybacking and jamming to reach a fixed pin. Move to the right crack and up to a roof/flake, plug a good cam or two (3/4 Camalot) then make a couple of overhanging layback moves to reach the roof where you may be dismayed to find nothing approaching a rest. Clip a pin, maybe plug a green Alien, and summon what ever is left in your arms to move right a move that wouldn't be bad in isolation but seems pretty tough after what preceded it to reach the first foothold since you left the ground. The climbing relents from here but you may be too wasted to notice.
About 5M right of Orphan at a thin crack that leads to a fixed pin.
You don't need a lot of pieces but you do need the right ones. I remember red Camalot, small nut, fixed pin, #5 Rock, 3 Camalot, 4 Friend. FP, green Alien and #2 Camalot. to get through the difficulties. I placed a piece or two higher up but don't remember what they were. Use runners judiciously as the climb weaves around roofs.
Jul 27, 2008
super fun route, if your having trouble starting the route (very cruxy) you can traverse in from the right side.