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j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Aria) - The Seasons (The Spring)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
48 T 
49 T 
Airy Aria T 
Blistered Toe T 
Bold-Ville T 
Carbs and Caffeine T 
Double Crack T 
Fall, The T,TR 
Fillipina T 
Full Face (pitch 2 only) T 
High Jinx T 
Ivan and the Saum T 
Lady's Lament-Boldville T 
Lisa T 
Lito and the Swan T 
Los Tres Cabrones T 
Lost in Yellow  T 
Manly, Yes, But I Like It Too T,TR 
No Man's Land T 
Nose, The T 
Oblique Twique T 
Scary Area T 
Shit Creek T 
Spring (P1), The T 
Sting, The T 
Summer, The T 
Tiers of Fear T 
Torture Garden T 
Uphill all the Way AKA The Man Who Fell to Earth T 
Vader T 
Ventre de Boeuf T 
Winter, The T 
Yellow Wall, The T 

Blistered Toe 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jim McCarthy and John Wharton, 1958
Page Views: 1,523
Submitted By: JSH on Sep 2, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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BETA PHOTO: The opening flakes for the regular start of Bliste...

Description 

Blistered Toe is a fun, steeper-than-it-looks pitch of climbing with two starts. To keep the grade at 5.8, start at obvious (but somewhat suspect) flakes about 10 feet left of the crack, climb up 10-15 feet, and traverse right towards the crack. Climbing the crack directly from the ground ups the ante to 5.9+. Climb the crack above, with some jamming and stemming, to a large ledge, and traverse left to a fixed anchor in a right-facing corner.

P2 is loose and possibly inobviously wet - not recommended! Diagonal up right via 5.4 face climbing, to the path of least resistance up to a large overhang (5.6, loose); traverse left here, then pull past the overhang to easier rock. P3 climbs easier rock to the top.


Location 

By a tree, below an obvious crack about 100 feet right of the Seasons (e.g The Spring (P1)).

There are two bolts at the left end of the large ledge atop P1, and slings on a tree at the GT / clifftop.


Protection 

Standard rack, up to a #3 Camalot.



Photos of Blistered Toe Slideshow Add Photo
Blistered Toe.   <br /> <br />The right-facing corner below the crack is the direct start (5.9+(+)).  The usual creaky-flake start is just to the left of the photo, and traverses in over the direct start.
Blistered Toe.

The right-facing corner below th...
Blistered Toe, direct start (5.9+(+)).
Blistered Toe, direct start (5.9+(+)).
looking down the 1st pitch  <br />looks dirty and wet, but it climbs better than it looks
looking down the 1st pitch
looks dirty and wet, b...
Comments on Blistered Toe Add Comment
Show which comments
By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
Jul 9, 2009

The direct start is a fun bouldering move with little fingers. There really is no sense in putting in pro until you make the move and get the good hand to the left. I thought it was pretty hard but what Gunks 5.9+ isn't?

By SethG
May 31, 2010

I led the first two pitches of this route (regular start) two days ago. Williams rates the first pitch at 5.7, and I'm not sure any move is harder than that, but this sucker is sustained and steep! I thought it just kept coming at you, and I was pumped after this 70 foot pitch. I heard later that Swain calls it a 5.8, which made me feel a bit better about it. I saw no sign of wetness on P2, but there is a big collection of rock that looks perilously loose in the middle of the open book on that pitch. I found the loose stuff easy to avoid, however, and I thought the pitch was nice enough for the grade. Since there is a bolted anchor just to the left of where the first pitch ends, I think most people will just rap after one pitch.

By JSH
Administrator
Jun 1, 2010

I followed a partner who's a lot taller than me recently - there are several moves that taller folks can make at 5.7, but for shorter folks who have to move up on less-ideal feet - combined with the steep - it's definitely a notch harder.