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Bliss, aka Bliss of the Knife is an excellent thin crack splitting the large face halfway up black wall, in between cannibal gully on the left and One Hand Clapping on the right.
Originally a 1960's A3 nailing route, this pitch has evolved into a finger locking, thin jamming and layback seam.
You must access the pitch from below, via One Hand and step left onto the face to some belay bolts. It is also possible to climb into this route via Bliss Direct, a mixed 5.12 route (the start of the original aid line.) The upper anchor is bolts below the overhang. It is possible to rap into it for a toprope (as I did) by rapping in from Lizard Ledge. Be sure to backclip the rappel and tie knots in the rope, it is difficult to swing into the anchor.
See Description. It is also possible to climb in and set up a TR by climbing in from the left (corner above Overhanging Hangover) and traversing in below the big overhang.
THIN. Please keep in mind I toproped this route. That said, I think it would be a safe lead if you have adequate thin gear. Remember this is an old nailing route, there are good slots for small nuts, and places for small cams. Climb at your own risk.
|By Aron Quiter|
From: Oakland, CA
Jul 5, 2009
Given that you're posting this "climb at your own risk", does it warrant a danger rating? i.e. pg-13?
Jun 28, 2012
Good gear to #.75 Camalot, especially blue, yellow, orange TCU. Bring only one purple TCU. Not dangerous in any way. This route should get climbed more.