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> 1. Black Wall - Left
Bliss
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.1 from 17 votes
Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | Max Jones, Victor Marcus, Gary Allen, 1979 |
Page Views: | 2,303 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Salamanizer Ski on Jul 5, 2009 · Updates |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Ky Bishop, Colby Wangler, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Black Wall seasonal raptor closures
Details
Mind nesting raptors that raise young on the Black Wall some years. If you sight a peregrine, contact Dan Joannes, staff biology guy for the Truckee Donner Land Trust at Daniel@tdlandtrust.org
Description
Bliss, aka Bliss of the Knife is an excellent thin crack splitting the large face halfway up black wall, in between cannibal gully on the left and One Hand Clapping on the right.
Originally a 1960's A3 nailing route, this pitch has evolved into a finger locking, thin jamming and layback seam.
You must access the pitch from below, via One Hand and step left onto the face to some belay bolts. It is also possible to climb into this route via Bliss Direct, a mixed 5.12 route (the start of the original aid line.) The upper anchor is bolts below the overhang. It is possible to rap into it for a toprope (as I did) by rapping in from Lizard Ledge. Be sure to backclip the rappel and tie knots in the rope, it is difficult to swing into the anchor.
Originally a 1960's A3 nailing route, this pitch has evolved into a finger locking, thin jamming and layback seam.
You must access the pitch from below, via One Hand and step left onto the face to some belay bolts. It is also possible to climb into this route via Bliss Direct, a mixed 5.12 route (the start of the original aid line.) The upper anchor is bolts below the overhang. It is possible to rap into it for a toprope (as I did) by rapping in from Lizard Ledge. Be sure to backclip the rappel and tie knots in the rope, it is difficult to swing into the anchor.
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