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Bliss 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
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Page Views: 777
Submitted By: caughtinside on Jul 5, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Description 

Bliss, aka Bliss of the Knife is an excellent thin crack splitting the large face halfway up black wall, in between cannibal gully on the left and One Hand Clapping on the right.

Originally a 1960's A3 nailing route, this pitch has evolved into a finger locking, thin jamming and layback seam.

You must access the pitch from below, via One Hand and step left onto the face to some belay bolts. It is also possible to climb into this route via Bliss Direct, a mixed 5.12 route (the start of the original aid line.) The upper anchor is bolts below the overhang. It is possible to rap into it for a toprope (as I did) by rapping in from Lizard Ledge. Be sure to backclip the rappel and tie knots in the rope, it is difficult to swing into the anchor.


Location 

See Description. It is also possible to climb in and set up a TR by climbing in from the left (corner above Overhanging Hangover) and traversing in below the big overhang.

Protection 

THIN. Please keep in mind I toproped this route. That said, I think it would be a safe lead if you have adequate thin gear. Remember this is an old nailing route, there are good slots for small nuts, and places for small cams. Climb at your own risk.


Comments on Bliss Add Comment
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By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Jul 5, 2009

Given that you're posting this "climb at your own risk", does it warrant a danger rating? i.e. pg-13?
By Reuben Shelton
Sep 10, 2009

It's not too scary with small gear
By V.X.
Jun 28, 2012

Good gear to #.75 Camalot, especially blue, yellow, orange TCU. Bring only one purple TCU. Not dangerous in any way. This route should get climbed more.
By Tyson Waldron
From: Reno, NV
Mar 29, 2015

The comments here along with a friend's vague assessment of this route's difficulty had me build this route up majorly in my head. I've continued on skywalker TWICE instead of going for it. I'm really glad I finally sacked up.

The opening moves are on a small nut, but it is a textbook placement. I didn't see it those first few times which is why I backed off. The route does really like small nuts, but the crux protects with cams if you want it. Beta tip: don't make the traverse the crux!

It's a great route and not scary at all once you seek out those few key placements.
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