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 ADVANCED
Jackrabbit Buttress
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Black Pearl, The T 
Blind Spot T 
Cottontail T 
Crazy Horse T 
Degunker T 
Don't Touch That in Front of Grandma T 
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Geronimo T 
Juggernaut T 
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MysterZ T 
Rose Hips T 
Saddle Up T 
Senior Discount T 
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Stuffed Animals on Prozac T 
Swine Tasting T 

Blind Spot 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: FRA Johnny Ray, Larry DeAngelo
Page Views: 413
Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on May 27, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: Blind Spot

Description 

Start in the corridor behind the huge boulder immediately to the left of the Black Pearl recess. Follow the obvious chimney to where it turns into an offwidth at an overhang about twenty feet up. Squeeze past the bulge. Limited maneuvering room and restricted visibility make this the crux. Continue up the crack a short distance and belay. (There is probably enough rope to do the climb in a single pitch, but it is likely you have left your big cam down at the bulge and it will come in handy again up higher.)

Descend via rappel from the bushes at the west end of the ledge. From the current anchor position, the descent can be done with a single 60-meter rope and some downclimbing, or with two ropes.

Location 

Use the same approach as for Black Pearl. Go up Juniper Canyon to the top of the steep section. As the canyon starts to level out, go right (north) into the streambed and follow this to the alcove where Black Pearl begins. A narrow corridor leads left to the prominent crack on the main face of the Black Pearl buttress.

Alternatively, approach from above while descending from one of the routes that tops out on the Jackrabbit Buttress.

Protection 

In addition to the usual stuff, we had one 6" and two 4" cams, and we probably would not have been happy with less.


Photos of Blind Spot Slideshow Add Photo
The upper part of the Blind Spot crack.
The upper part of the Blind Spot crack.

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By Susan Ruff
Apr 26, 2014

The start is easier (and more fun) if you think in three dimensions. As you face the obvious crack, look behind you (and up). There's some pro there and the chimneying is good.

BTW, Swine Tasting party is a fine continuation of this climb to the top of Jackrabbit buttress (similar flavor).