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 ADVANCED
Hostess Gully - West Corridor
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Between Heaven and Earth S 
Blind Pig S 
Fruit Filling T,S 
Fruit Pie S 
Ho Ho S 
Honeymoon in Almo S 
It Takes Two S 
Numbshull T,S 
Patina Atoll T,S 
Red Rib S 
Southern Rock Opera T 
Twinkie T 
Zinger S 

Blind Pig 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Brian Cabe & Nathan Smith
Page Views: 774
Submitted By: Skiholzer on Jul 18, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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A little fun on Blind Pig

Description 

Start on the large boulder for Honeymoon in Almo. The first crux (5.9/10) is pulling over the small roof at the second bolt. The route curves left until a second small roof, then moves back slightly right. A small cam is nice for protecting the roof move since you're 15 feet out from the last bolt; although the move isn't too difficult. Climb the smooth friction face above (5.10a) to a bolt and to the chains. Rope drag can be a bit of a problem. Sporty bolt placements. From the chains a 70 M rope will just make it to the starting boulder (with rope stretch). 60 M will require a little down climbing.

Location 

Near the top of the Hostess Gully between "Honeymoon in Almo" and "Between Heaven and Earth".

Protection 

Draws and maybe a small cam.


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By Brian in SLC
Jul 29, 2010

FA Brian Cabe and Nathan Smith.
By boltclippinfool
Aug 25, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Fun route! I thought the crux move over the lower roof is a bit harder than 10a, it's over quick tho. Then, pretty cruiser to the second roof, which has huge holds. I wedged a medium stopper here for peace of mind. Once you turn the final roof you'll encounter a beautiful, seemingly featureless shield of dark stone. Press onwards to find cool edges right where you need them to get you to the chains.
By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Jun 7, 2014

Definitely worth more than the one star it's given in the guidebook.

Didn't find cam or nut placements necessary. Some hunting will reveal secure feet. Way to save the crux for the last 10 feet of the climb! Good, long climb.
By Dan Mathews
Aug 11, 2014
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

The climb has a hard/awkward move at the beginning and a challenging sequence at the end. The middle is a bit easier, but a lot of fun.