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Routes in Hostess Gully - West Corridor
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13b S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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A Thousand Moons T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Between Heaven and Earth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Blind Pig S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Country Western Ballad S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Cup Cake S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Das Boot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Earth Muffin S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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El Castleton T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Fruit Filling T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fruit Pie S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Get Your Fixe S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hiding In Plain Sight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ho Ho S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Honeymoon in Almo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hot Sticky Bun (P1) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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It Takes Two S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Leather and Lice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Numbshull T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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One for Matt T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Patina Atoll T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Piece of Cake T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Red Rib S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Slab Happy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Southern Rock Opera T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Three Bits S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Twinkie T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Unknown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Zinger S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Sport, 115 ft (35 m) |
| GPS: | 42.12433, -113.67199 |
| FA: | Brian Cabe & Nikki Smith |
| Page Views: | 2,518 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Skiholzer on Jul 18, 2010 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Access Issue: (1) BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park and US Forest Sevice lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING. US Forest Service Lands closed to new route developement. (2) Highlining temporary ban in place at CIRO/CRSP
Details
(1) The BLM has amended the Cassia Resource Management Plan (RMP) to permanently close the 400 acres of land it manages in the Castle Rocks Interagency Recreation Area to staging, traditional rock climbing, sport climbing and bouldering, as well as overnight camping and development of new trails. Here is a link to a map that shows the BLM land in yellow. parksandrecreation.idaho.go…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
Description
Start on the large boulder for Honeymoon in Almo. The first crux (5.9/10) is pulling over the small roof at the second bolt. The route curves left until a second small roof, then moves back slightly right. A small cam is nice for protecting the roof move since you're 15 feet out from the last bolt; although the move isn't too difficult. Climb the smooth friction face above (5.10a) to a bolt and to the chains. Rope drag can be a bit of a problem. Sporty bolt placements. From the chains a 70 M rope will just make it to the starting boulder (with rope stretch). 60 M will require a little down climbing.
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