|Hostess Gully - West Corridor
Start on the large boulder for Honeymoon in Almo. The first crux (5.9/10) is pulling over the small roof at the second bolt. The route curves left until a second small roof, then moves back slightly right. A small cam is nice for protecting the roof move since you're 15 feet out from the last bolt; although the move isn't too difficult. Climb the smooth friction face above (5.10a) to a bolt and to the chains. Rope drag can be a bit of a problem. Sporty bolt placements. From the chains a 70 M rope will just make it to the starting boulder (with rope stretch). 60 M will require a little down climbing.
Near the top of the Hostess Gully between "Honeymoon in Almo" and "Between Heaven and Earth".
Draws and maybe a small cam.
Aug 25, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Fun route! I thought the crux move over the lower roof is a bit harder than 10a, it's over quick tho. Then, pretty cruiser to the second roof, which has huge holds. I wedged a medium stopper here for peace of mind. Once you turn the final roof you'll encounter a beautiful, seemingly featureless shield of dark stone. Press onwards to find cool edges right where you need them to get you to the chains.
|By Charlie S|
From: Ogden, UT
Jun 7, 2014
Definitely worth more than the one star it's given in the guidebook.
Didn't find cam or nut placements necessary. Some hunting will reveal secure feet. Way to save the crux for the last 10 feet of the climb! Good, long climb.