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|Bastille - M-F closures. Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>|
This route is somewhere between a bomb and a single star. IT gets the bomb for those intolerant of loose rock and a star from those who feel OK just avoiding it, which is easy enough to do.
Like its neighbor, Something Blue, the position of this one is such that one can not jettison the loose rock from it, for fear of who else may be near on the trail, but out of sight.
Start up under the left end of the big roof, traversing out and left under it, placing gear where ever available and using long slings. Watch out for bad rock! It can be avoided, but attention to doing so is necessary. Continue past a V-shaped slot (named 'Something Blue, (5.9). comtinue to the right to the end of the roof and cut back right in a crack/corner as the roof finally ends. Finish to the top of the rock, where a cordalette and a few pieces of gear can protect the belay.
To descend scramble down and right to the fixed sling raps above the roof routes 'Blues Power' and 'Office Girls...'
This route is in the Amphitheatre on the lower section of the West Ridge. To the right of Allosaur there is a huge roof with the routes 'Blues Power', 'Wing Shot', and 'Office Girls Walk the Plank' To the left of these, at the left margin of the big roof, is 'Blind Mouse'.
'Blind Mouse' shares the start with 'Something Blue' and 'Farmer's Wife.'
A standard rack to 3" with some longer slings. There will be some small runouts and some less than optimal gear.
By Clint Locks
Jun 29, 2007
I found this route to be quite spicy, often loose, and full of pigeon crap...and its numerous offenders. Truly, the finger crack toward the end is a very redeeming factor, but you've got to get there first. Tony's right--use long slings and don't pass up a gear placement. I found it helpful to have tri-cams and doubles on Camalots through #3.
There are two potential exits; take the first one, which is a minor cut to the right then up the finger crack, then left around a bulge and right again through some unprotected airy 5.7 moves to the summit ridge. (The second 'exit' puts the leader on some crumbly 5.10 credit cards, bad feet, and a sketchy traverse. Then again, you may want to finish with that exit, as it would be more in keeping with the character of the rest of the route!) Save a #3 Camalot for the belay. ***The only reason I would recommend this route would be that it does stay in the shade most of the day.