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Routes in North Face of Pike's Peak
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66 Years of Fun WI3 M5 |
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Blind Assumption T WI5 M5 |
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Blind Luck T WI4 M5 |
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Center Couloir of Three Little Pigs (Flying W) M2 Mod. Snow |
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Left Couloir of Three Little Pigs (Flying W) Mod. Snow |
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Ole 6, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c WI3 M6+ |
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Right Couloir of Three Little Pigs (Flying W) M2-3 Mod. Snow PG13 |
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Three Dragons T M8 |
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Toga Party T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI3-4 M5- |
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Total Abandon T WI4+ M4-5 |
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Y Couloir |
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| Type: | Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Erik Wellborn and Phil Wortmann, Fall 2012 |
| Page Views: | 3,326 total · 27/month |
| Shared By: | phil wortmann on Feb 5, 2014 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
I decided to add this to the data base, because it's just too good a line to be so obscure. I find myself recommending this one to local climbers, then I proceed to give them horrible beta that leaves them more confused about the route's whereabouts than when I started.
Blind Assumption can be very thin in the fall, causing a high number of folks to bail after the first pitch. If that's ever the case, Blind Luck is a great way to salvage that day and tick off a damn good route.
P1. WI3. Follow the first pitch of Blind Assumption, but stop short below the huge chockstone instead of belaying at the fixed gear, 100 feet.
P2. M5 WI4. Find the finger crack on to the right and follow it left of the chockstone, then right through the tunnel and set a belay at a good stance, 60 feet.
Climb a short pitch to the belay ledge near the base of BA's pitch 3, and move the belay there.
P3. Find a small crack on the far left side of the ledge that leads up to a dark cave. Pull around the right of the cave with great gear, and continue through wide crack to a solid ledge. Belay in the corner, 50 feet.
P3 alternative. Pull the obvious roof crack to an extremely hard mantle. It's very hard to find or place gear once you're up there, so go hard! It is hard to rate this, maybe M9? I was climbing M8 fairly well when I did this, and I thought I was going to blow a hernia doing it. Wellborn said it was M8+, but he's a man among men....
P4. M4/5. Climb the beauty of a dihedral, exiting right at the end of the corner system, and belay at a ledge at the top. This pitch is great! 120 feet.
P5. M4. Climb a short pitch to the top of the technical difficulties. Stay far left, the obvious crack ahead of you is awkward and hard to protect. When in doubt, go left, 50 feet.
Walk off right, crossing the tops of BA and TA, and continue to the highway. Or, rap down BA with two ropes.
We've done several other routes on the Corinthian Column and in the area, and maybe someday we'll get around to posting them. Toga Party, Lost 'N' Found, etc., hit me up if you want a topo or beta until then. I'd like to get back up there as soon as the road clears up and Wellborn and Noah get back to the Springs.... Where y'all at, fellas?
Cheers.
Blind Assumption can be very thin in the fall, causing a high number of folks to bail after the first pitch. If that's ever the case, Blind Luck is a great way to salvage that day and tick off a damn good route.
P1. WI3. Follow the first pitch of Blind Assumption, but stop short below the huge chockstone instead of belaying at the fixed gear, 100 feet.
P2. M5 WI4. Find the finger crack on to the right and follow it left of the chockstone, then right through the tunnel and set a belay at a good stance, 60 feet.
Climb a short pitch to the belay ledge near the base of BA's pitch 3, and move the belay there.
P3. Find a small crack on the far left side of the ledge that leads up to a dark cave. Pull around the right of the cave with great gear, and continue through wide crack to a solid ledge. Belay in the corner, 50 feet.
P3 alternative. Pull the obvious roof crack to an extremely hard mantle. It's very hard to find or place gear once you're up there, so go hard! It is hard to rate this, maybe M9? I was climbing M8 fairly well when I did this, and I thought I was going to blow a hernia doing it. Wellborn said it was M8+, but he's a man among men....
P4. M4/5. Climb the beauty of a dihedral, exiting right at the end of the corner system, and belay at a ledge at the top. This pitch is great! 120 feet.
P5. M4. Climb a short pitch to the top of the technical difficulties. Stay far left, the obvious crack ahead of you is awkward and hard to protect. When in doubt, go left, 50 feet.
Walk off right, crossing the tops of BA and TA, and continue to the highway. Or, rap down BA with two ropes.
We've done several other routes on the Corinthian Column and in the area, and maybe someday we'll get around to posting them. Toga Party, Lost 'N' Found, etc., hit me up if you want a topo or beta until then. I'd like to get back up there as soon as the road clears up and Wellborn and Noah get back to the Springs.... Where y'all at, fellas?
Cheers.
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