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Pulling the ledgy face moves (and trailing George...
A sustained, lengthy route tackling a series of roofs to a final exposed crux move from a face over one last roof. Mostly 5.10+ until the last moves. Final hard move can be avoided by going right at the last bolt.
This is the bolted face/arete with a number of roofs just to the right of Original Face Route.
16 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor (not 13 as stated in one of the guides)
Long draws on the bolts under the roofs are nice to minimize rope drag but aren't required.
Bring a 2nd 50m rope for the descent. If you only have 1 rope, you could get down by rapping first to the Original Face Route anchors (annoying to do, though), and then down from there. Two ropes are better. Or a single 80m rope.
|By Aaron Miller|
Dec 25, 2007
Once again, I am sorry for moving bolts on a sport route but with the high frequency of rockfall on this wall its better to be safe than sorry.
Fun route, by the way (to whomever put this line up)
|By Rick Bradshaw|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Mar 8, 2008
This route was established by some combination of Mark Thomas, Tom Wezwick, Karl Kiser, and Chris Kessler, all of whom worked together on several routes at Diablo and in particular on the Winter Wall.
|By Karl Kiser|
Apr 1, 2008
FA done by Mark Thomas with help from others in the cleaning.
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 22, 2009
I thought the crux was not at the top, but at the middle, about 75 feet up, going up and left at a roof instead of right. Nice route.
From: Santa Fe, NM
Nov 28, 2011
An interesting route. Seemed fairly clean to me, most of the climbing felt moderate 5.10. The straight up exit at the end is probably about 10+ but with some rope drag pulling on you with feet on slaby edges its probably a letter grade harder (11a). Don't try to clean this on rappel - probably much smarted to have a second follow it and clean (I wish I was smart). A Nice LONG, OVERHANGING, & Diagonal line with mostly very positive holds.