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The crux layback crack to the fun face climbing ab...
This is a spectacular variation finish to Tolle Route (aka Guide's Route). Exposed, technical liebacking and stemming up a crack for 50 feet gains a beautiful, bolt protected face. The face, while imposing, has plenty of features to keep you moving steadily upwards... A long, memorable pitch.
From the 3rd set of anchors on Tolle Route (aka Guide's Route) step right into a corner and then continue up the thin crack on the headwall. Exciting liebacking moves up this crack get you to the first bolt. Bolts take you all the way to the chains from here. You'll pass another set of anchors off to your left on the way.
One set of cams from small TCUs to #3 Camalot, nuts including some small ones, and quickdraws. The gear is all there when you need it and this is a safe, but exposed, lead for someone comfortable at the grade.
Jul 6, 2009
Climbed this route today. It is a great pitch, 35 meters of sustained and varied climbing. The crux layback/crack protects well, although a bit spicy going to a tremendous jug. The face climbing above is very fun but keeps you thinking. Dont overlook this variation because of the 5.8 approach pitches. Both my partner and myself were impressed with all the sweet finger locks (5.8 finger locks?!)leading to it.
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Jul 8, 2009
Lead it again today. The stuck 0.5 camalot has been there for years, and I suspect it'll be there for a long time to come given the limited traffic the route gets. I was able to place orange mastercam (same size as 0.5 camalot) to the left to back up the fixed piece.
Great pitch, possibly my favorite 5.10 pitch at Rock Springs.