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Mel's Diner
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Background Noise T 
Bleu Plate Especial T 
Earworm T 
I Love Brian Piccolo T 
Kickin' Bach T 
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Roman Pretzel T 
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Bleu Plate Especial 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Todd & Donette Swain, Terry English, Nancy Geismar, George Hurley
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 389
Submitted By: Gunkswest on Oct 18, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Climb up a short, right leaning crack then pull past a bulge to a ledge. Climb the steeper, sculptured face above to the top.


Start about 30 feet to the right (toward Quail Springs) of the Mel Cracks at the next face. There is a large acacia (cat's claw) bush in front of the face.


Gear to a blue or purple Camalot to protect the route and medium to large cams and some slings to rig an anchor.

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By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Nov 2, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

This climb has 4 bolts on it, the first is a glue in. Some engaging moves on the lower section. Standard Josh grain ball bearing detract from the climbing, as does the ledge halfway up the route you could park a car on. Still, some interesting and challenging moves on the bottom half. Felt more like 5.10 to me.

Hey JunkSweat, curious how you know the FA party names but not the name of this route?
By Russ Walling
Jan 27, 2014

Saw this today, and it is a travesty. A fucking glue in???? then some scrappy grainy moves to lay down sized ledge... then maybe 9 feet of actual climbing up a scabby headwall? At what point do you guys say "why bother?".
By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Jan 28, 2014

Russ;......your comments shine best AFTER you climb the route; and Miramontes sure know a lot by just looking at climbs;.....climb it and THEN slam it........
By Russ Walling
Jan 28, 2014

It's true. I know a piece of shit when I see it. Unlike some of the rabid new routers, I can actually tell what will be a crap line on even crappier rock before I put up yet another blight on the landscape.
By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Jan 29, 2014

I wish I had your (and Miramontes) talents;...but unfortunately;...I have to climb the route first before I call it crap......which, as you can imagine, has me climbing one "steamer" after another.......(it's a vicious and sad cycle;........)......when will it end........(I CAN rate climbs after I have done them with 100% acuracy;....never been wrong on a rating yet;......THAT is something many find amazing....).....
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jan 29, 2014
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

I probably should have bombed this after I did it, it truly is a terrible route. But sometimesÂ… that sort of thing just cracks my shit up. I mean, who would put the effort into bolting something so lousy? I had to admit, I had fun climbing it mostly because it was just so damn bad and the rock was even worse. Plus it's only 30' long and has a ledge you could park a car on half way up. And it required a glue in because the rock is so lousy! Won't even hold a bolt.

The beta for this one is to apply as much surface area of your clothing as possible and slither up. Use the friction to hold yourself in place, and the ball bearings for upward progress.

For the cherry on top, have fun with that cats claw right at the base. THis one has it all!
By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
Apr 19, 2014

Pretty darn gritty. My heart went pitter-patter as my feet went skitter-skatter.

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