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 ADVANCED
Fallen Idol /Face Dancer + Wave/Moss Cave
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Billie Idol (aka "Fallen Idol" p.2) S 
Blessed Saint Yabo S 
Confessions of a Mask S 
Diemos S 
Eros S 
Face Dancer S 
Fallen Idol S 
Fallen Idol (Pt I), The S 
Good Luck Mr. Gorsky S 
Kamiakin S 
MaskaBait S 
No More Heroes S 
Poagie Bait S 
Smoke Shapes S 
Travelling Menagerie, The S 
Winds of War S 

Blessed Saint Yabo 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Todd Skinner
Page Views: 124
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Mar 22, 2011

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St Yabo topo.

Description 

Dear Lord! What did Yablonski do to deserve this homage? The climbing on this line is actually quite fun if you can disregard the omnipresent silt and sketchy anchor. Unfortunately this is hard to do since the dirt coats virtually every hold. However, if you're looking for athletic reaches between great pockets on a steep-for-the-grade wall, whip out that toothbrush and get to work.

Stick clip the first bolt and teeter up the precarious flakes to a good but dirty sidepull. Make a big move for the obvious diagonal crack, then move left for a few feet to a good jug. Excellent pockets lead onto the slab and a few random holds that don't require cleaning. Cruise the ever-interesting slab to reach the big ramp. A few easy moves on spooky rock lead to the one-bolt-placed-in-a-detached-flake-anchor. At this point, if you brought a bunch of extra draws, head right or far left to finish up one of the neighboring lines. Otherwise down-climb to the lip of the ramp, then move easily left to the Stone Seed anchor, careful to avoid a grating pendulum fall.

Location 

This is the third bolted line left of Face Dancer, or the third route right of the right side of the Moss Cave. It begins from a stack of flakes that protrude from the ground.

Protection 

~6 bolts to 1-bolt anchor in loose rock that suffers from extensive seepage.


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